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Old Boiler...leaky expansion tank
MisterB1965
Member Posts: 3
I have an old cast iron radiant heat system. There is a "Thrush #30" tank mounted horizontally between the floor joists above the furnace that start leaking badly.
My question is, do I need to replace this with another giant expansion tank or is there a more efficient, smaller (less expensive) unit that can be used in its place. I can work the pipe wrenches....
If you need the info, the house was built in the 1800's. The heat system put in sometime in the first half of 1900's. Heated square footage is about 2000 sq ft. There are 11 cast iron radiators through two floors.
Any help appreciated.
My question is, do I need to replace this with another giant expansion tank or is there a more efficient, smaller (less expensive) unit that can be used in its place. I can work the pipe wrenches....
If you need the info, the house was built in the 1800's. The heat system put in sometime in the first half of 1900's. Heated square footage is about 2000 sq ft. There are 11 cast iron radiators through two floors.
Any help appreciated.
0
Comments
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expansion tank sizing
Depends on the volume of water in the system and the minimum/maximum temperatures and pressures during operation. If you can post some pictures of the radiators and the piping around the boiler we should be able to help.0 -
I
have a house very similar to yours, and use a #60 Extrol. My house has an old gravity conversion with a LARGE volume of water. When we installed the new boiler, I had a #30, and it would sputter at the PRV. Went to the # 60 and no problems. It's not very big at all.0 -
Thanks!
I verified my requirements by using an online expansion tank calculator and the #60 Extrol was recommended. It has been ordered.
Thanks for the replies.0 -
couple Things
Put a ball valve before it. If the bladder should rupture, it's a piece of cake to change. Make sure the system is at the proper pressure.
A. Calculate the number of feet from the regulator to the top of highest radiation.
B. Multiply this number by 0.43 and add 3 lbs. This will give the pressure required to raise the water to the highest radiator
and keep the system under pressure.
Adjust the pressure in the expansion tank to match system pressure, before you install it (use a bicycle pump).0 -
ball valve before
and a drain valve in between, so you can check and re-fill the tank every year or so.
Or use a Webstone Expansion Tank Pro http://www.webstonevalves.com/default.aspx?page=customer&file=customer/wecoin/customerpages/expansiontank_details.htm0 -
SWEI
Very cool little fitting, and a great idea.0 -
Thanks again..
There is already a shut off before the leaky tank which I will replace due to is corroded nature. I was planning on using a valve with a drain port. Maybe a little slower but should do the trick.
Thanks again0 -
Air elimination
Isn't it now necessary to now add some type of air elimination device to the system with this typ of expansion tank? Mike0 -
Webstone
I buy their Ball Drains by the case -- an improvement to the old Drain Ball, now capable of draining/purging either the main or the branch, and takes up even less space than the originals did. They've got some pretty smart people there.0 -
Be careful
how and where you mount the new #60. If the baldder in that thing ever ruptures and the tank gets water logged it will weigh about 72 pounds. Don't just hang it off a pipe. Use a bracket or something and mount it to a wall. They're supposed to be mounted vertically.
Good luck
jeff0
This discussion has been closed.
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