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radiator question re: Supply Valve and Tee

norb
norb Member Posts: 44
in Strictly Steam
In a cold bedroom, the radiator is about to have the supply valve changed by a plumber.  I believe it to be faulty because the valve will get piping hot, but nothing gets into the radiator.  My question is:   if I were to have the valve installed, but , between the new valve and the radiator, would it be ok and beneficial to have a reducing tee installed.  The third port on the tee would face up and have perhaps have an added air vent on this tee.  Would this work? Would it help to drive more steam up to this problem radiator????

Comments

  • Hap_Hazzard
    Hap_Hazzard Member Posts: 2,846
    Why not

    just install a higher capacity vent on the radiator? What's on it now?
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • norb
    norb Member Posts: 44
    supply valve and tee

    a Gorton D is now on the radiator, which i would keep---it is on the opposite side of the radiator where the supply valve is----and as I mentioned, my idea is to have a reducing tee installed between the new supply valve and the nipple at the bottom of the radiator, then on the 3/4' port of the tee, which would be facing up, i would install a Gorton #1 air vent---------so you think this would work?  My idea is to try and get as much steam up to this cold radiator
  • pmck
    pmck Member Posts: 3
    similar issue

    I have a similar problem. Let me know if you were able to fix it.
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,505
    edited January 2013
    questions

    Does the radiator heat up ok if the thermostat is pushed up several degrees so the boiler runs for a longer period of time? If it does heat with time perhaps you have to reduce the venting on the other radiators to make this a more attractive path for the steam. Adding a vent between the valve and the radiator might help but if that radiator never gets hot it might not be the first thing to try. You do not want to reduce the connection diameter between the valve and the radiator, that will lead to water hammer.



    If the radiator never heats it could be a bad valve, the valve stem may not be connected to the valve mechanism any more. I assume the boiler has the capacity to feed the system and that the main vents are large enough to get the air out of the mains quickly. I also assume that all the piping has been checked to be sure it is sloped correctly, don't trust your eyes use a level.



    Is this radiator at the end of the steam main? What kind of vent is on the steam main and what kinds of vents are on the other radiators?



    It may just be a badly balanced system.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
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