Boiler Repipe - OR- Better Venting

Jeff_44

I've had some trouble with pressure and balance with my one pipe system. I put a couple of posts here and received very helpful advice. (Thank You). The main issue has been that there is at least one random radiator that does not get heat during each cycle AND that at the end of the mains, the vents (2 Gorton #2's) don't get enough heat/steam to ever close. Therefore, the boiler never builds any pressure showing on the 1 - 3 lbs gauge.



BUT...some of you helped me realize that 1) there was an issue with the near boiler piping (the header was reduced to 2" when the manufacture called for 2 1/2". I ordered the proper sized fittings to make the change ....BUT....I also learned that I had been over venting the radiators by quite a bit - thus the main vents never got enough heat/steam.



Now that I've fixed the radiator venting, all the above mentioned problems have vanished and the system is working very well. Given this, should I still redo the near boiler piping to accommodate for the 1/2 difference in header pipe sized.



I've attached a photo.



As always, thank you for your help.

Enreynolds

If it were me

Now that the venting has been sorted out, and the system is running well, AND it is November 28th, I would put off the boiler re-pipe til the spring.  This way you don't have to worry about Murphy taking your boiler down for a week in the dead of winter.



Eric

Paul48

Tee'd Main

You will be also splitting that tee'd main in the spring?

Jeff_44

Yes -

I plan to put a drip connection from the main down to the wet return. Does that make sense?

Paul48

No

Three main risers......no tee'd mains. http://www.comfort-calc.net/Steam_Piping_Donts.html

Jeff_44

There is a ...

Capped end to this main...as seen in the photo. Would it be best to tie in there?

nicholas bonham-carter

Insulation

Don't forget to put some insulation on the pipes, and because you will be reworking them in the spring, I would wrap them with fiberglass roll insulation, about 2 inches, as it is less effective than real preformed pipe insulation, (which you can put on when the re-piping is done).--NBC

Hap_Hazzard

Insulation

NBC's suggestion is right on the money. Loosely wrapped fiberglass insulation will do a decent job of insulating for now, and later you can use it to wrap the fittings and tight spots where the pipe wraps won't fit.

Jeff_44

Thanks

Actually,



the photo is from the day of instillation about six years ago. The contractor did a beautiful job of wrapping all the near the boiler piping. He did not insulate the the equalizer - Is this typical?