Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Odd-sized fitting

Options
FittingMonkey
FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
in Strictly Steam
I have an old radiator with fittings that are somewhere between 1-1/2" and 2".  Does anyone have an idea of what I might be working with and where I can find such fittings?  No place online (based on my research) has an 1-3/4" fitting, which is what it appears to measure out to be.

Comments

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,714
    edited November 2012
    Options
    ID vs OD

    Not sure if this is what you are seeing but an 1 1/2" pipe has a larger outside diameter as 1 1/2" is the inside diameter.



    1 1/4" pipe has a outside diameter of 1.660"

    Please see the following URL :

    http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/pipe.htm
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Image

    Not sure if I stated this correctly. I tried a 1-1/2" fitting and it was too small.  A 2" fitting was too big.  I don't know how to measure the inside of the union. 



    This is what I am looking at:



    http://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/boilers-home-heating-steam-hot-water-systems/4583d1350847359-3-4-unions-different-size-threads-img_5018.jpg
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Options
    union threads

    are not the same as pipe threads.  What are you trying to accomplish?
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Union threads

    I want to connect this old radiator into my existing system. Before I connect it, though, I need to pressure test to make sure there are no leaks.



    I went to Menard's and purchased 1-1/2" galvanized fittings to fasten on to the radiator ends.  This worked with a previous radiator which used 1-1/4" fittings.



    I tried to tighten the 1-1/2" fitting to the radiator opening (union?), but it was too small.  So I went and got a 2" fitting, but it was too big.  Based on what I'm looking at, I'd need something in between a 1-1/2" fitting and a 2" fitting, but no plumbing supply place carries those.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Options
    keep or replace the union

    Either remove the union from the old radiator, or use both halves of it.
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Removing the union

    Any suggestions on how I could remove the union from the radiator?  I was told to use something called a "breaker bar" and a propane torch.
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Spud wrench

    I meant a "radiator spud wrench" not a breaker bar.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Options
    spud wrench

    are there nubs inside the spud?  If not, you might try a nipple wrench.
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Unions removed!

    I picked up a radiator spud removal wrench from Gopher Plumbing Supply for $14.95.  I eagerly drove home, took a whack at it, and they came off on the first try. Sweet!



    First of all, can someone please tell me what the correct term is for these pieces (photo attached)?  I want to order some new ones that will work with 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" fittings.
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Options
    Fitting

    Hi- They're usually called radiator spuds and come as a matched set with the fitting (radiator valve, elbow) that to which they are attached. Normally the union flanges AREN'T interchangeable with the same type of fitting made by another manufacturer. They might be close but usually you'll have leaks. As was pointed out earlier in this post, the threads on the flanges (Spud nut) are straight thread rather than tapered pipe thread

    - Rod
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Jackpot?

    So if I buy the radiator "valve" from Pex it actually contains three pieces: (1) the valve, (2) the spud, and (3) the spud nut?



    http://www.pexsupply.com/Matco-Norca-BARVY-1250-1-1-4-FIP-x-Male-Union-Steam-Angle-Radiator-Valve-4649000-p
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Options
    Matched Set

    Yes! It comes as a matched set. Is the radiator inlet 1 1/4 inch?

    - Rod
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Not sure

    Not sure if it's 1-1/4", I'll need to measure it. I think it's more of a 1-1/2"



    Do you know of a good document on how I can measure fittings?  Isn't the ID what we go by with cast iron or galvanized?
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Options
    Determining Pipe Size

    The best way to determine the pipe size is by measuring the outside circumference. I've attached a chart which gives the common pipe size measurements.

    - Rod
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Measurements taken

    The diameter appears to be 1.6" based on my measurements (photo below).  So that would make it 1-1/4" correct?
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Options
    Pipe Thread Sizing

    It would seem to be 1 1/4 inch pipe.  I've attached a pdf  on pipe thread that might be of interest to you.

    - Rod
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    What about the "other" side?

    Confirmed that 1-1/4" is the right size for the radiator.  So if I purchase a hot water radiator valve, it sounds like I'll be okay for one of the sides (since a spud is included), but what about the other side?  I don't want to buy a valve for both sides!



    I could buy a 1-1/4"x close brass nipple, but it won't have the notches inside it to tighten using the radiator spud wrench.



    Ideas?
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Pressure-testing now

    The fittings are 1-1/4" which I was happy about. I purchased a plug for one end and concocted a pressure-testing device for the other end.  I raised the pressure to 60 PSI and, after an hour, it was at 55 PSI, but I think it was do to a leak in one of my fittings.  I tightened everything up and increase the pressure to 70 PSI.  If by this afternoon I'm above 60 PSI, I'll be happy.  It's hard to know for sure if all my fittings are secure enough to prevent even the most minimal air leak.



    Tester:

    1-1/4" close >> 1-1/4" to 3/4" reducer > 3/4" close > 3/4" to 1/4" reducer > 1/4" T

    T1 = 1/4" PSI gauge

    T2 = 1/4" close > 1/4" to 1/8" reducer > 1/8" close > AIr compressor nozzle
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    edited November 2012
    Options
    STOP!

    Wow!  You DON'T want to do this!  You are creating a potential bomb that could kill you!

        If you ever need to pressure test that high you want to completely fill the radiator with water first and then use small amount of compressed air. Since water doesn't compress, if the radiator bursts, the flying shrapnel is minimal. Using all air, the air expands and throws pieces in every direction. I'm assuming you're going to use the radiator for steam which would mean that the working pressure would be under 2 PSI so there is no need to test it at high pressure. A 10 PSI test would be plenty. Attached is a photo of an air tank that blew up at just over 75 PSI. Luckily no one was killed.

    - Rod

    Edit: After I posted this I saw your previous post and from that realize you are probably using this radiator for HW.  The dangers remain the same. If you are going to test it keep the pressure to a minimum level and you might consider using water to test it instead of compressed air.
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Hot water radiator

    Thank you for the suggestion.  I reduced the PSI to 20, since that is the load that is on my existing system.  I should clarify that this is for a hot water radiator system, not steam.



    After two hours, PSI dropped from 70 to just about 60.  Not sure if this indicates a leak with the radiator or just a leak with my fittings.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,714
    Options
    Hot water?

    You do realize this is the steam section?  :)
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • FittingMonkey
    FittingMonkey Member Posts: 16
    Options
    Yes, hot water

    I do realize this is the steam section. I couldn't find a hot water section (n00b?), so I figured this would be the next best thing.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,714
    Options
    Well..

    The steam section is where all of the cool people hang out so I don't blame you.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
This discussion has been closed.

Categories