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Purchasing a new System which is unfamiliar to me...please advise
GermanMajor
Member Posts: 4
We will be installing a new heating/DHW system within the
next month and being new home owners I would appreciate any input/suggestions
anyone might have regarding the options we’ve been given by a couple of local
heating companies. Our previous home (which we lost to a house fire 7 months
ago) was heated by wood and used an electric hot water heater. The new home has
an oil fired boiler which also supplies the hot water. The boiler is very old (original
to the house) and we knew it would need to be replaced soon, but it had
recently been serviced and many of the parts replaced within the last 2 years
according to all the receipts and service records. We knew we were on borrowed
time and were hoping to limp along until spring, but that is not the case.
We’ve lived in Maine for 4 years now and unfortunately we’ve never dealt with a
boiler system. I am sure I am
giving too much information about the home, but hopefully it will paint a
better picture of what we are working with.
The home we purchased is an older 1954 ranch with 3
bedrooms, 1 bath, full basement, and insulated 1 car attached garage. The attic
is insulated, how much I am unsure of, but the inspector did say it was above
what he usually sees when looking at attics. The home has had newer vinyl siding
installed and the previous owners had all the windows replaced with the newer
energy efficient tilt style except the living room which has two very large
5’x5’ picture style windows. I have resealed them and will be purchasing storm
windows for them this week. I would like to replace them with more energy
efficient ones, but it’s not part of the budget this time.
We have been using one oil filled radiator style heater and one
6quartz style heater for the last 2 months and they’ve maintained a comfortable
temperature (70) inside the whole house with an electric bill around $120. I
could easily have it warmer if we chose, but I would rather save the
electric. It’s not my ideal
electric bill, but we are now in a position to replace the heating and hot water
so the electric bill will drop quite a bit. The basement itself has maintained
a temperature of about 61 in the coldest spot and with the coldest months
approaching I realize that will also be an issue with pipes.
The rooms all have 7ft ceilings and hot water baseboards around
the exterior wall.
The measurements of the baseboards are as follows:
Two of the bedrooms have 10ft and 8ft long baseboards and
two insulated windows.
The third bedroom has 5ft of exterior wall, but it has two
5ft lengths stacked upon each other behind the baseboard cover, so 10ft of
baseboard in one 5ft space.
The Living room has baseboards that run 10ft, 20ft and 6ft
long and unfortunately the living room is the only room that wasn’t upgraded to
the newer vinyl/tilt in windows and therefore it has 2 large picture size
windows approx 5ftx5ft.
The kitchen has 8ft and then a 3ftx2ft corner section and
lastly the bath has a 4ft piece.
The baseboards have the fins attached to copper piping and
they appear to be 5 fins per inch and the baseboards are 5inches from floor to
top of the fin. The casings are 8inches from floor to top.
We have hardwood and vinyl flooring throughout and I had to
admit they were great in the summer as the floors were cooler, but during the
winter it’s not as wonderful.
A couple of suggestions that we’ve been given are
#1 Replace the oil boiler with a propane Viessmann Vitodens 100w
with combi unit. I would have the external temperature monitor. The contractor also said he would put a largecast iron radiator in the basement to help with the systems condensing. We were told that with the Viessmann our fuel consumption would be saved and because we have so many baseboards around the house it’s a good thing. This system would be installed and the vent will be run up the chimney.
My concerns are with the reviews I have seen for the
Viessmann. I did notice that everyone seems to recommend an inline filter for
the system to remove sludge or particles. I do not want to purchase a system
and find out that I am going to be paying a lot of money in service calls.
Option #2 has been to put in a Biasi B10-4 oil fired boiler,
but the chimney may have to be lined. I don’t want to cut corners and if that
needs to be done, then so be it, but it was not figured into the original
estimate
Option #3 install the Biasi oil fired boiler, but put a hot water electric tank in separately
I do have one set of estimates still to come in and one company that deals in Rinnai coming out on Monday. We have so many choices and
unfortunately these systems are so new to us that I would appreciate some
feedback or suggestions. Systems I should be thinking about? Should I not
consider propane? Should I worry about sludge in my system since it’s from the
50’s? If anyone has another suggestion for the heating/hot water I’m very open
to hear them. We are in Western Maine and so it does get chilly.
I would like to see this done correctly to prevent issues in
the future and with this being our first time with baseboards and a boiler I
felt it best to get the advice of those who know these systems and what they
are capable of.
next month and being new home owners I would appreciate any input/suggestions
anyone might have regarding the options we’ve been given by a couple of local
heating companies. Our previous home (which we lost to a house fire 7 months
ago) was heated by wood and used an electric hot water heater. The new home has
an oil fired boiler which also supplies the hot water. The boiler is very old (original
to the house) and we knew it would need to be replaced soon, but it had
recently been serviced and many of the parts replaced within the last 2 years
according to all the receipts and service records. We knew we were on borrowed
time and were hoping to limp along until spring, but that is not the case.
We’ve lived in Maine for 4 years now and unfortunately we’ve never dealt with a
boiler system. I am sure I am
giving too much information about the home, but hopefully it will paint a
better picture of what we are working with.
The home we purchased is an older 1954 ranch with 3
bedrooms, 1 bath, full basement, and insulated 1 car attached garage. The attic
is insulated, how much I am unsure of, but the inspector did say it was above
what he usually sees when looking at attics. The home has had newer vinyl siding
installed and the previous owners had all the windows replaced with the newer
energy efficient tilt style except the living room which has two very large
5’x5’ picture style windows. I have resealed them and will be purchasing storm
windows for them this week. I would like to replace them with more energy
efficient ones, but it’s not part of the budget this time.
We have been using one oil filled radiator style heater and one
6quartz style heater for the last 2 months and they’ve maintained a comfortable
temperature (70) inside the whole house with an electric bill around $120. I
could easily have it warmer if we chose, but I would rather save the
electric. It’s not my ideal
electric bill, but we are now in a position to replace the heating and hot water
so the electric bill will drop quite a bit. The basement itself has maintained
a temperature of about 61 in the coldest spot and with the coldest months
approaching I realize that will also be an issue with pipes.
The rooms all have 7ft ceilings and hot water baseboards around
the exterior wall.
The measurements of the baseboards are as follows:
Two of the bedrooms have 10ft and 8ft long baseboards and
two insulated windows.
The third bedroom has 5ft of exterior wall, but it has two
5ft lengths stacked upon each other behind the baseboard cover, so 10ft of
baseboard in one 5ft space.
The Living room has baseboards that run 10ft, 20ft and 6ft
long and unfortunately the living room is the only room that wasn’t upgraded to
the newer vinyl/tilt in windows and therefore it has 2 large picture size
windows approx 5ftx5ft.
The kitchen has 8ft and then a 3ftx2ft corner section and
lastly the bath has a 4ft piece.
The baseboards have the fins attached to copper piping and
they appear to be 5 fins per inch and the baseboards are 5inches from floor to
top of the fin. The casings are 8inches from floor to top.
We have hardwood and vinyl flooring throughout and I had to
admit they were great in the summer as the floors were cooler, but during the
winter it’s not as wonderful.
A couple of suggestions that we’ve been given are
#1 Replace the oil boiler with a propane Viessmann Vitodens 100w
with combi unit. I would have the external temperature monitor. The contractor also said he would put a largecast iron radiator in the basement to help with the systems condensing. We were told that with the Viessmann our fuel consumption would be saved and because we have so many baseboards around the house it’s a good thing. This system would be installed and the vent will be run up the chimney.
My concerns are with the reviews I have seen for the
Viessmann. I did notice that everyone seems to recommend an inline filter for
the system to remove sludge or particles. I do not want to purchase a system
and find out that I am going to be paying a lot of money in service calls.
Option #2 has been to put in a Biasi B10-4 oil fired boiler,
but the chimney may have to be lined. I don’t want to cut corners and if that
needs to be done, then so be it, but it was not figured into the original
estimate
Option #3 install the Biasi oil fired boiler, but put a hot water electric tank in separately
I do have one set of estimates still to come in and one company that deals in Rinnai coming out on Monday. We have so many choices and
unfortunately these systems are so new to us that I would appreciate some
feedback or suggestions. Systems I should be thinking about? Should I not
consider propane? Should I worry about sludge in my system since it’s from the
50’s? If anyone has another suggestion for the heating/hot water I’m very open
to hear them. We are in Western Maine and so it does get chilly.
I would like to see this done correctly to prevent issues in
the future and with this being our first time with baseboards and a boiler I
felt it best to get the advice of those who know these systems and what they
are capable of.
0
Comments
-
We do not
discuss pricing on this board.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
I apologize and will correct immediately
I apologize I will take the prices off. I only meant them as reference points for what I was looking at. I apologize. Thank you for catching it so I can correct the issue.0 -
I apologize and will correct immediately
I apologize I will take the prices off. I only meant them as reference points for what I was looking at. I apologize. Thank you for catching it so I can correct the issue.0 -
Can you elaborate on a couple of things?
1. The contractor also said he would put a largecast iron radiator in the basement to help with the systems condensing. This statement is strange to me.
2. Is one supplier of fuel more reliable than the other?
3. What is the length of the lined chimney run?
4. Does Maine require a condensate neutralizing setup?There was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
Xavier, Thank you very much.
I appreciate any info/advice you might have. I am trying to be as informed as possible in order to make this decision so that I’m not purchasing something that I will later regret.I don’t want to be choosing the cheapest system for price, or the most expensive system if it’s not right for me. I also want to make sure the person we are hiring is
installing everything correctly i.e., flushing lines and installing a filtration system if needed.
We are new in town and we’ve used our current company for service calls a couple of times. They’ve always been courteous and informative, but I don’t have the 15yr relationship with them that I had with our service company out west and therefore I’m asking more questions. I am trying to be a responsible homeowner while building confidence with the new company. I want to ask whether they flush the system before installing the new boiler or if they install filtration systems on older systems etc, but I don’t want to insult them either by asking too many questions. I am just at a loss as to what is proper for install and what to make of the boiler decision. It’s a big
difference from throwing wood into a stove or flicking a breaker switch.
To hopefully answer the questions you’ve asked,
#1 The contractor mentioned that he could put the large radiator
style heater in the basement to help with the dampness, cold floors and to “dump”
excess heat before it cycled back into the boiler. I myself am confused about
how that works. He commented on the fact that we had a lot of baseboards and
that was great for the condensing system, but adding the extra radiator would
help with it’s efficiency and the other issues I mentioned.
#2 The fuel is not an issue in regards to reliability, but
the propane company here has remained much more stable. I am not sure if I can
put the oil/propane price on the site. It is however about $1 cheaper per
gallon for propane.
#3 The Chimney is not lined, it has cinder blocks only. This
was also pointed out when we started getting our estimates. The Chimney is
about 21ft I would say from the basement to the roof. Two companies said it needed a liner and one said it didn’t.
The previous owners never did anything to bring it up to code because they
didn’t replace the boiler (only parts like the burn box and gauges). One of the
main issues we were told propane would be better is because of the cost we
would incur to run the new chimney liner for oil. If oil is better and would be
more beneficial I would have the liner installed and go that route.
#4 I truly don’t know if Maine requires a condensate neutralizing setup.0 -
Propane cost
Oil has 140,000 BTU per gallon and propane is 92,000 BTU per gallon so that means you will get about 65% of the heat out of a gallon of propane as you will a gallon of oil. In the Boston are oil is going for about $3.50 a gallon so you would have to be able to get propane for $2.28 a gallon for the same amount of heat in this area.
I'm sure the prices are different up where you are, just make sure you understand the difference.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
If you go with Viessmann...
and you utilize the chimney, you will need to line it with approved material, which is AL294C stainless and provide a condensate drain. The expense to line the chimney with AL294C venting I would find to be cost prohibitive. However ff you can vent the Viessmann through a sidewall with CPVC, that is much less expensive. As a side note, if you go with propane you have gas cooking, clothes drying and hot water. I checked and Maine has exhausted its rebates for high-efficient heating equipment, so no luck there.There was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
If you go with Viessmann...
and you utilize the chimney, you will need to line it with approved material, which is AL294C stainless and provide a condensate drain. The expense to line the chimney with AL294C venting I would find to be cost prohibitive. However ff you can vent the Viessmann through a sidewall with CPVC, that is much less expensive. As a side note, if you go with propane you have gas cooking, clothes drying and hot water. I checked and Maine has exhausted its rebates for high-efficient heating equipment, so no luck there.There was an error rendering this rich post.
0 -
There's the flexible polypropylene liner, too
Not as expensive.0 -
I was not aware polypropelene
is Viessmann approved. That's good news. That AL294C can be a real ripoffThere was an error rendering this rich post.
0
This discussion has been closed.
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