How Did They Do?

Rob_40

Well, the snowman is gone, and the new member of our house arrived today.   Here are the baby pictures.   I think things went well, but I am happy to hear any honest opinions.   It's a single pipe system

BobC

Looks good but . . .

It looks good but the 5th picture shows two returns that are joined together a bit on the high side. If you end up with any water hammer, I'd look to lowering where they join so it's well below the water line of the boiler.



Bob

Paul48

Gauge

It looks good. Might as well put the 0-3 lb gauge on it now though.

Rod

Looking Good!

Hi Rob- It looks really good! Here are the returns Bob was mentioning. As a general rule returns should join until well below the boiler's water level. This stops the mains from cross feeding.  You may be okay, just wait and see how it works out.  Insulating next ?  Insulation makes a noticeable difference. Crash did a great write up on insulation last spring. Go to the Search the Wall Button and type in Crash and Insulation. That should get you to the post.'

- Rod

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Rob_40

Thanks for the feedback.

I felt pretty confident that they would do a good job installing.   Two guys spent the whole day and from the little I have learnt, they seemed to do the near boiler piping correctly.   But it is reassuring to read more experienced people concurring. 

I think I found Crash's post on insulation:

http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/137178/Insulation

It's not cold enough yet to have the boiler triggered, but I set the thermostat high to see what it would do.  Since the pipes are bare, I only got the first floor radiators warm near the intake, after a half hour of firing.  However the first floor warmed up nonetheless because of the heat from all the bare pipes coming up from the basement.  

When I went downstairs to check on the boiler after the half hour of firing, there was a distinct haze in the air, and a slight odor of something, like oil.   I guess the pipes have residue that vaporized.  I also felt like the haze was largely steam, but I dont know where it was leaking from.  The two new Gorton #1s main vents didnt seem like they were releasing any steam.  

The water in the inspection gauge was rising and falling.  And some sediment was appearing already.   I expect there will be a lengthy cleaning out of the old pipes and radiators.

Thanks again for the feedback.

Rob

nicholas bonham-carter

skimming next

do a search here for skimming, to prepare yourself for many hours of fun!

i hope they left you the skimming port specified by the installation instructions.--nbc

Rod

Nice Job!

Hi Rob- From what I can see when I zoom in, it looks like you have a good skim port.

It sounds as though you need to do some skimming to get the boiler water settled down. I had to skim my boiler 5 times before the waterline began to behave properly. Skimming makes for dryer, more efficient steam.

 How are your main vents?  Be sure you main vents have adequate capacity and check to see that they are working properly.

  Putting insulation on those steam mains will get the steam into the radiators where it belongs rather than having it condense in the piping. This will warm your home quicker and will save fuel. Good insulation pays for itself very quickly in fuel savings and comfort. As you have probably learned by reading Crash's excellent post, 1 inch insulation gives you the best "bang for the buck".

- Rod

Toymotorhead

Congradulatons

Congratulations, your new boiler has all the options and the well set up parts that mine doesn't. I am a little jealous.



Richard.

crash2009

I think

 they did an excellent job Rob.  I especially like the wet return (a drain at both ends) water line connects to it, and a Hartford valve to isolate the boiler from the wet return flush.  Expect to be using this one a lot, in the beginning, as the new boiler will be washing down years of crap from the old pipes.  This is great that you will be able to capture the crap before it gets into the boiler.

As already mentioned if the dry returns give you any trouble, they will need to be extended like the picture Rod edited.

Toymotorhead

No thermal cutoff overhead?

Is there no thermal cutoff overhead? Like one of these?

http://www.inner-tite-omco.com/thermalcutoff.html

Or is that just a northern new england thing?



Richard.

Rob_40

Nope

No thermal shutoff.

crash2009

Must be a New England thing

  We are not required to have those in Michigan.

ChrisJ

thermal shutoff

I wasn't required to install one in NJ either.  In fact I've never seen one before though it does seem like a good idea.

Hap_Hazzard

Just one concern.

That second main. I assume they had to work around the gas line, but I think they still could have gone about it differently and avoided having that first section pitch back to the riser. Still, since it's the second riser it should all drain down the equalizer. Just keep an eye out for any indications of wet steam on that main.

Hap_Hazzard

Looks like old work.

It would have been nice of them to fix it, especially if they changed the NWL. It makes it easier to balance the venting.

The Wire Nut

Not sure...

Shouldn't the pigtail be rotated 90 deg? Probably not as important without a mercury switch but...





Alex (Wire Nut)...

kcopp

Can't have a ....

thermal cut out w/ gas... NFPA 54. Same thing you can't have the stair switch other.