Vaporstat - which one? Can I combine it with my pressuretrol?

nz

It's been a while since I was on here...it must be getting close to that time to fire the boiler :)



I want to replace or add a vaporstat to my boiler this year, before I get to the heating system. I have a few questions:



1. Are the Honeywell vaporstats really as bad as I've been reading on some of the posts....should I even bother? I currently have a pressuretrol and it works fine.



2. Which model vaporstat should I get? (if Honeywell is the brand) - I know I want the 2-16oz model, but there are two of those. I don't know if i should get the L408J1025 or the L408J1009.



<a href="http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/13403/408%20J%20Vaporstat-Schematic.pdf">http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/posts/13403/408%20J%20Vaporstat-Schematic.pdf</a>

<a href="http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=vaporstat">http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=vaporstat</a>



3. Can I wire both the vaporstat and the pressuretrol together, so if the vaporstat fails, the pressuretrol will kick in? If so, how is it done properly?

Dave in QCA

1009

Nick, Long time since you were on here.  You get the water hammer all corrected above the garage?  I hope I am remembering correctly... Dunham vapor system, in the wall convectors on first floor.  Great house.  If I am getting this all wrong.... my apologies... Senior moment!



You might want to check the library for more Dunham stuff.  I bought some books and scanned them, Dan has added them to the library.  The is one section on the Dunham Vapor System, which is the setup you have, as I recall. This link illustrates a very early version of the Dunham Vapor System,  http://www.heatinghelp.com/files/articles/2490/Dunham%20Vapor%20System0001(1).pdf 



Regarding the Vaporstat, You need the 1009 model because you want the contacts to break as the pressure goes up past the set point.  Yes, you can and should combine this with your pressurestat.  You want the switches wired in series, that way if the contacts on either switch open, the circuit is interupted.  Are you familiar with basic circuitry?  If not, I'll explain it, but not need if you already understand.

nz

Yup

Dave - good to hear from you. Yes, you remembered everything right.



Thank you for the vaporstat model. I am familiar with basic circuitry, however I'll probably need to review and test it. I don't want to waste your time...I'll order the 1009 model now, and I'll post if I have any questions.



I never re-posted on the thread about the hammer(s) above the garage, because I didn't have anything to report. I did however, have someone over earlier today...I asked him to take a look at it, but I'm not convinced he is going in the right direction...he told me to put an air vent on the radiator which I know is a big no-no (this is two pipe Dunham). I told him that was not a good idea. Especially since my problem isn't air getting out, its water pockets in the mains (i'm pretty darn sure, i can hear sloshing near one of the areas its hammering.) he then suggested I shim the pipes. At this point, i'm not sure what to do, but i want to get it fixed.

Dave in QCA

NO VENTS

There are many reasons why you should never put an air vent on a two pipe system.  Don't let him do it.  It will not fix the problem anyway.

Shimming the pipes might help.. there has to be a low spot that needs to be corrected.

nz

For sure

I had to keep myself from laughing about the air vent suggestion...I know better after reading many of Dan's books.



I might try shimming, but it would be difficult since one end of the garage sunk an inch or two.