How can I get a W-R 1361 zone valve to run off a Taco ZVC404 Zone Valve Control?

Jells

How can I get a W-R 1361 zone valve to run off a Taco ZVC404 Zone Valve Control?



I'm

trying to use a 1361 zone valve

<a href="http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1286983925517/40455_PROD_FILE.pdf">http://s3.pexsupply.com/manuals/1286983925517/40455_PROD_FILE.pdf</a>

off a Taco ZVC404 priority control

<a href="http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/102-090.pdf.%C2%A0">http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/102-090.pdf. </a>

 I thought it would be easier than this, but the way the valve is constantly powered

makes it way different than a standard Honeywell valve.



I powered the valve off the controller's 24v supply, and it cycled fine when I

used one leg of the  thermostat circuit, matching it to the opposite

side of the circuit on the 1361 bus. Great. Then I tried to figure out

how to use the leads from the controller that normally go to the

microswitch on a Honeywell, with a circuit that was designed to give

auxiliary power rather than just close a switch. When I attached one

side to the switched terminal 3 of the valve there was nothing, the

other caused the relay in the controller to rattle fast.



For now I've kludged it, using the chassis of the Honeywell valve I removed

basically as a relay, powering the motor off the 1361's auxiliary circuit so it

switches on the boiler & circulator via the controller. Any better

ideas would be welcome.



BTW, the point of the job is to greatly increase the flow to an indirect tank.

JStar

Wiring

I've thought about this 5 different ways, and can't put it all together without using an isolation relay energized on the valve's 2&3. The open contacts go to the priority zone's TT. Priority zone end switch jumped out. Indirect aquastat goes to valve's 4&5.

Jells

Thanks Joe

 that's basically what I have, using the guts of the Honeywell as the relay. What would be a cost effective replacement for that improvisation?



What if I skipped the controller altogether, wouldn't it work just fine if I powered both the 1361 & the RANCO ETC-112 temp controller off the CGi's 24v? That way one side of the CGi's switch circuit is already there. I realized today that by putting a 37 Cv valve on the indirect zone it will act like a passive priority control, being by far the lowest resistance on the manifold.  I just won't get the pretty lights showing me it's calling.



BTW, I'll be calling this week about that boiler, I've been procrastinating, but gotta get it done before heat season starts...

JStar

Options

Any standard 24 volt relay would work. It's hard to predict the perfomance of a 'passive priority'.

Paul48

relay and another transformer

In figure #2 of the valve instructions replace the thermostat with a cheap 24 volt solid state relay with normally open contacts, and power its coil with the output of the 404?

Jells

I've got a relay on order

I ordered an inexpensive PACKARD PR290Q fan relay, it should do the trick, and is small enough to fit in the case of the Taco controller. At first I thought I might need to order a $60 zone relay.



The relay is for using the aux output to trigger the boiler.  I have the thermostat part  worked out.

Paul48

What am I missing?

Use the relay and another transformer just like figure #2, and you're done.

JStar

Transformer

He can use the transformer from the zone board.

Paul48

Yes

I'd doublecheck the power requirements, and if running 4 zones, find out which transformer controls what zone and split them evenly. The relay isn't needed to fire the boiler.

Jells

The relay is between the valve & the Taco board

The valve wants to supply power on "make", which is at odds with the electronics on the Taco board wanting a circuit completed like a Honeywell's microswitch. The fan relay solves that.  The Taco transformer is powering the same 4 zones it always has, plus the minimal draw of the temp controller. I suppose the current draw of the W-R heater circuit is comparable to the constant draw of keeping a Honeywell open.

Paul48

The

404 instructions I looked at had 2 transformers, that's why I said  to split them. I think I read that the auxilary circuit on the valve is 2 amps.You said..."The relay is for using the aux output to trigger the boiler". Are you still planning on that?

Jells

There's only 1 transformer in my unit

Paul,  I may have oversimplified when I said "The relay is for using the aux output to trigger the boiler".  There will be no direct wiring between the boiler and valve, just using a

relay to make the W-R look like a Honeywell to the 404.  As I indicated in a more recent post the voltage supplied by the valve activating will make the contact in a relay, simulating the contact in a Honeywell, and that contact will complete the circuit to the 404, which will then use it's internal relay to trigger the boiler.

Paul48

OK

I was thinking of using the dry contacts of the relay between terminals 4 and 5 of the valve with terminals 1 and 2 hot all the time from the transformer.Then open or close the relay with the output of priority zone 4. I'm sure your way will work better. Good Luck