Baseboard tee install

PDB2

In a baseboard loop, what is the proper way to install a venting tee ? Should it be at the up or down flow position of the rise ? Or both ? Or does it matter ? 

Jean-David Beyer

Should it be at the up or down flow position

I do not know, but I am not a heating professional.



In my house, I had two undersize baseboard units. The key operated bleeder valve was as the water exited the baseboard units. Every year for 30 years, I would attempt to bleed them, but water came out immediately, so it did not actually need bleeding.



When I had those short baseboards replaced by much longer ones, the contractor did not put in any bleed valves at all. He said they were not needed for baseboard. I was a bit uneasy about this, but in the three years I have had it set up this way, the only time it needed purging was when it was necessary to replace the circulator for that zone.



My guess is that it does not matter. If the system is set up to be purged some other way, as mine is. My system is all copper tubing.

Gordy

Venting T

Should be at the return side of the baseboard convector.



Think like air,and water.

Mark Eatherton

Shouldn't be necessary...

UNLESS it is a one pipe diverter tee (Monoflo or scoop tee) system. On a conventional baseboard system that is properly piped, and is pumping away from the PONPC, I've not used a vent tee/ell in over 30 years. If it is a mono flow system, as Gordy accurately pointed out, upright, near the end.



ME

PDB2

and one more thing.....

The local Menards store has a hydronic panel display board made up using all Watts "quick connect fittings". They are described as in the wall rated , and the brass version as 80psi @ 240 Degrees. Anyone had any experience with these in a heating application ?

Mark Eatherton

I wouldn't...

Personally, I have used their brass Shark Bite fittings on my own system, and have had zero problems, but the fittings I saw on line are also available in poly propylene, and I don't believe they are an oxygen barrier type of fittings. That could cause havoc with any ferrous components in the system. Quick and easy doesn't always mean best.



ME

PDB2

good point

and to be truthful, they were only using the brass versions in the display. My thought after studying the setup was they could be a great solution to problems that arise during repair, remodel and retrofit situations where soldering is tough to accomplish. On the other hand, wonder what a few hundred expansion cycles does to their gripping fingers as a copper line advance and retreats within the fitting.......maybe has no effect on the actual seal, so not a problem. Interesting  

Danny Scully

Panels

I use these panels all the time with no issues in regards to the brass sharkbite fittings. You could always remove them as they are only on the supply/return of the panel.