Amp draw of a Taco 007

Ron Jr._3

We replaced this hall of shamer on Thursday . Had trouble heating up the main zone . Water was leaving at 175 and returning at 115 max . Granted , there's about 100 feet of baseboard on this zone and some of the slab piping is 1/2 inch ( to route around doorways ) . But we never had return water come back so cool . Unless the main zone was still radiant .



So I checked the amps on the circ . Never done that before , never had to with a Taco . The draw was .3 to .35 amps . Is this normal ? Voltage was 124 .



Thanks in advance !

Al Corelli_2

Nice!

You do some of the nicest "tight" installs. I love your work!

Robert O'Brien

Normal

I've amped a few and they have been between .3-.5

icesailor

Amp Draw for 007's

That's what I see on them. I need to use a digital amp clamp to get a reading.

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

But the spec's say

it should be .71 amps at 115 v.



http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/101-029.pdf

Mark Eatherton

It's one of 2 or 3 things....

Hi Ron,



When was the last time you replaced your battery on your DVM?

I had some similar problems a while back. I compared my readings to the sparkies meter and figured out that mine was wrong. It too was showing a higher than normal voltage, or a lower than expected amp draw.



The other thing it could be indicating , as confirmed by your delta t, is that the loop is severely constricted, or still partially air bound. (doubtful with your years of experience).



Try replacing your battery first.



Then try slamming a ball valve closed while circulating and see if you can hear the whoosh associated with water coming to a quick halt. If no whoosh, you know what to look for.



And sure, there is a possibility that the floor circuits still on line, but the consumer would be able to confirm that with their bare feet...



Let us know what you find. BTW, those motors don't show much difference in amperage between full load and no load if memory serves correctly.



Good luck.



ME

Ron Jr._3

Hey Al !

How you doing ? Man it's been ages ! Since the Big Ugly in Little Italy ? Thanks alot for the compliment ! 

Ron Jr._3

Thanks guys !

Mark , I purged that zone 3 times . The initial purge . 2nd time after the zone wouldn't return hot , then a 3rd time after I swapped out the circ thinking there was something wrong . 3rd time was purged hot and it didn't seem like an excessively long time to purge through . I did shut both purge valves while the circ was running to see if the amp reading changed . It didn't .



I wonder why these circs are advertised at .7 amps if they normally run at half that ? I'll have to check some more circs on different types of heat  ....... 



I have 2 amp meters but only used one . Both circs were drawing the same amps . I'll check the battery tomorrow and test both meters on a circ and maybe a burner to boot .

Joe Mattiello

Taco 007

The Taco 007 nameplate FLA is .71.  Using a clamp amp meter is a good way to determine if you're moving any water.  of course the amp load is relative to work, so if the amps are less than nameplate, you might have a lot of resistance, or you have a faulty meter.  You indicated a huge delta T which also indicated you're not moving water or a minimal amount anyway.  I usually get calls from contractors, or homeowners complaining about a pump that is not working.  The first thing I do is ask for an amp reading, or if they can confirm the impeller is moving.  If the impeller is turning, it most likely is system related.   

Have you calculated what the total dynamic head of the system is? The 007 although meets most system requirements, it could be challenged on this one.  Obviously, we can guesstimate which pump would work, but I don’t like to engineer that way.  Perhaps, you can give me a call and we'll go over your system requirements?