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We usually don't do much steam work, but this boiler replacement job came our way.  The old boiler wasn't maintained properly and it eventually built up enough sludge that it failed.  The old boiler sections split.
Often wrong, never in doubt.


  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 603
    Nice install Alan .

    If you run into sludge troubles I'd throw in a purge on the return . Not sure if i see one in there . We like to get all that crap out of the return before it hits the boiler . Was the old one dry fired ?
  • furnacefigher15
    furnacefigher15 Member Posts: 514
    edited March 2012
    That header drip looks a wee small.

    And, do you have the requisite 24'' to the base of the header from the water gauges center line?

    Also is there a second outlet on the steam chest? If so, you need to use it, otherwise your water line may not be what you think it is. The low pressure on the outlet you do have will cause the water to rise at that point, and lower on the opposite side. Could cause half the heat exchanger to be filled with water (side with steam outlet) while the side without may be part dry. This will cause one of the sections on the right side of the boiler to crack in short order. I may have that backwards as far as which side will have the higher water level, but it's still a reality. I believe the pressure in the boiler will be lowest at the steam outlet and that will cause the water to lift at that point.

    The old boiler looks to have had 2 outlets, but the issue they had is the supply from the header was tapped between the steam outlets and likely caused water hammer, and wet steam.
  • Sludge

    Thanks, Ron.  I'll replace that last 90 with a tee and plug for purging because I am worried about any left over sludge in the system.  I'll be cleaning and skimming the boiler on Monday. 

    I'm not sure if the boiler was dry-fired, but since the owners were not aware they had to drain the boiler weekly, I'd say that's part of what caused its demise.

    ff15: I think I'm shy the 24" to the bottom of the header and will have to remember that for the next time - thanks.

    Yes, there is a second 3" outlet off the boiler, but the instructions gave me a choice: 1-3" or 2-2-1/2" outlets.  Being a lazy man when it comes to large diameter pipes, I chose the former.  They also specified an 1-1/4" equalizer which is what we installed.

    I was concerned about how the boiler operated once we got it steaming since all the asbestos insulation had been removed without replacement and there were some sections of pipe with negative slope, but it worked fine and to my great relief there was no banging. 

    I included a picture of the MM low water cutoff to show its level compared the the boiler water level shown on the side of the boiler.  The MM's line was quite a few inches lower than the boiler's and I thought perhaps we used the wrong tappings, but a call to Peerless said it was OK to operate the boiler that way.  (Maybe now I have that 24" to the header).  Tom Fallon with Peerless sent me a drawing of the gauge glass with an explanation of the different levels which I have attached.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.
  • David Sutton_6
    David Sutton_6 Member Posts: 1,079

     I would say just one thing about it....Looks great ;-)

    i would add the insulation back on if you can, it will make a big differance.

    For not doing my steammers , you did good man.


    aka DrPepper
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