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Water gauge replacement

I'm considering replacing the entire water gauge on my boiler in conjuction with putting a union on the pigtail.  Presently the pigtail is directly connected to the top of the gauge and this makes yearly checking of the pigtail a hassle.  Is there any issue with installing a different brand/model gauge than what is on the boiler right now?  The one that I have now is a Conbraco, but I don't know the model number offhand (I think that it is their standard model).  I figured that if I am going to replace it that I had might as well replace it with something better if I could.  Any brand and model recommendations?  I see that there are automatic gauges with ball checks that prevent water leakage if the glass were to break.  Is an automatic used on a steam system?

Thank you.

Comments

  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Sight Glass

    Hi- Generally Water Sight Gauges are pretty durable. I'm not familiar with a type that uses ball check valves but my initial thought is all you would gain would be something that might easily clog up. (I'm a great believer in keep it simple.)  If you feel you need a new gauge you can get them from Pex Supply.on the internet. Post a photo of your present gauge setup and maybe we can recommend a different configuration.

    - Rod
  • ToddB
    ToddB Posts: 75
    thanks

    Thanks.  I'll post some photos tomorrow morning.  I realize that replacement is probably not necessary, but it looks like the gauge has not been maintained (alot of corrosion on the bottom mount) and I thought that it would be prudent to replace it in conjuction with other work.
  • ToddB
    ToddB Posts: 75
    photos

    photos attached.
  • ToddB
    ToddB Posts: 75
    Pigtail and water gauge

    I think that I am going to put a union on the end of the pigtail where it attaches to to the top of the water gauge in order to make for easier checking and cleaning.  To do so I will need to move the pigtail away from the boiler by using an additional nipple and coupler at the top and bottom gauge connections.  Right now the pigtail is pretty close to the electric box at its left and I think that an added union and nipple on the pigtail will interfere.  Is there a better way to do this?
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,576
    new sight glass

    can you rotate the tee, so that your gauge/pressuretrol will be on the right, instead of the left? alternatively, a different pigtail would allow you to connect from the top of the gauge-cock.--nbc
  • ToddB
    ToddB Posts: 75
    not enough space

    No, unfortunately I can't locate the pressuretrol/gauge on the right - the equalizer is pretty tight to the gauge.  The controls are too tightly spaced on this boiler for easy maintenance (see attached photo).  When you remove the pigtail it barely clears the equalizer insulation as set up right now and you have to take apart the top of the water gauge.  Moving the pressuretrol/gauge to the top is an interesting idea.  I would have to install the two in line.  Would this be a problem since the piping configuration differs from the boiler installation directions?  If not an issue, what type of pigtail would I need?  Do you have any thoughts about my original question regarding ball checks in water gauges to prevent boiler water leakage if the glass should break?

    Thank you.
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    edited March 2012
    Sight Glass Dlowdown

    Hi- With the bronze pigtail you are not likely to have clogging problems with the pigtail.

    Since you are worried about the sight glass ports etc., I have attached a drawing /parts list for a blow down. This will allow you to blow any dirt out of the sight glass ports or the sight glass itself.  Most sight glasses have a 1/4 drain plug on the bottom fitting where the blow down fittings attach.  Parts A,B & C are available fromm Mc Master Carr   http://www.mcmaster.com/  and I've included their part numbers. The washing machine hose is available from Home Depot. I might caution you that when you are working with a hot boiler always wear gloves. Steam Locomotive Engineers do and it can save you from a burn  from an accidental touch.



    As NBC mentioned a possible new pigtail. If you need one, McMaster Carr is a good source for these. They have all types and sizes of pigtails. Always get one in red brass (bronze) as they don't corrode internally.  As for the valves in case the glass breaks- Out of curiosity I  looked around and found these. On a high pressure system they might be handy to have though with low pressure they would probably leak about the same as a crack in the glass and I think they would also have a tendency to clog up more. Just my 2 cents!

    - Rod
  • ToddB
    ToddB Posts: 75
    thank you

    Rod - thank you very much for the information about the sight glass blowdown parts.  This is something that definitely I want to do, but being relatively new to steam (about 2 years in current home) I was not sure of the best way to do it.

    I'm learing alot from reading here, Dan's books, and diving in and getting my hands dirty.  I have found that I get more satisfaction out of doing the work myself and that the quality of my work is better than some of the the "professionals" in my area.

    I agree about the about the automatic valves - I like to keep things simple too.  I was just not sure if the automatic type was used on residential boilers.  I am going to purchase a new Conbraco series 200 sight glass set.  I currently have the 100 series, but I am willing to spend a bit more for the upgrade.

    As for revising the existing pigtail arrangement to a vertical configuration, what are your thoughts?  By the way, I did have a problem with a partially clogged pigtail even though it is red brass.  That clogging problem is what leads me to revising the existing set-up to make it more maintenance-friendly.  As it is now it is very difficult to work on.

    Thanks again.
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