TRV Newbie Question

nz

So I have a room that gets too hot, it's two floors directly above the boiler, so steam gets there first. I've replaced the trap, it just gets hot all the way across.



I've been kicking around the idea of getting a TRV for the room, I want to make sure I'm doing it right. It seems like you need two parts - the valve, and the non-electric actuator. Would this be the right combination?



<a href="http://www.statesupply.com/valves-and-controls/honeywell/radiator-valves/hn1570">http://www.statesupply.com/valves-and-controls/honeywell/radiator-valves/hn1570</a>

and

<a href="http://www.statesupply.com/hn1500">http://www.statesupply.com/hn1500</a>



This is the kind where you actually set the temperature (68,70,72), and not just a relative number (e.g. 1,2,3) right?



This radiator is not fully enclosed, it just has a top/rear shield, so the valve I picked has the spot for the actuator to go on the side.



Any gotchas or caveats I should be aware of?

JK_3

2 Pipe ?

In saying that you replaced the trap I am assuming that this is a 2 pipe system. The 2 pipe system design is so that you can turn down a radiator. If you turn the supply side valve down    the speed that the steam gets there will slowed. It may take a few adjustments to get where you want to be but it  is OK to adjust.

Hope this helps.

nz

Yes - 2 Pipe

Correct - this is a two pipe system. Dunham Vapor.



I have experimented with partially closing some of the valves, this helped a little - but the valves are so old that I probably need to replace them. They leak, and leak even more when partially closed. You can hear the air/steam "popping" out - and then once the burner shuts off, you can hear the air being sucked back in through the valve. Sounds like a mini kazoo...lol.



I figure I can replace them with a plain old valve, or I can go with a TRV for better temperature control. However, since I've never bought TRVs - I want to see if this is what I should be buying - or if there is another product that is better suited for this application.

Dave in QCA

Probably a good idea

Since you are saying that the old valves are leaking and if they are the packless type, there is not a lot that can be done to correct that.  Also, since you say that the upstairs is about 4 degrees warmer than the main floor, TRVs would be a great way to get the second floor under control. 



Having the thermostatic element off to the side is a good way to go as it will not be effected by heat coming off of the steam pipe.  I would also suggest that you check prices at Pexsupply and Tunstall.  Tunstall is a smaller company that gives great service and specializes in a number of steam heating products.

nz

Done!

I replaced all the second floor radiator valves in TRVs - 8 side mount valves, and 3 angle pattern valves w/ remote sensor (for enclosed radiators)



They seem to work well, and they don't leak either



The remainder of the valves in the house (13 of them) have been replaced with standard valves. Looking forward to a lower-pressure heating season!

nicholas bonham-carter

Leaking valves

Check your pressure, and main venting, as the symptoms you described appear to be due to inadequate venting, which has to let the air out with no resistance as well as letting the air back in. TRV's are a good choice in your situation, AFTER you have checked your venting. The system was probably designed so that the radiation would have matched the load in each room, and if the air were not in the way would have heated up evenly throughout.--NBC

nz

Venting

NBC - thanks for the feedback. To answer your questions and provide some more background:



The leaky valves weren't (well most weren't) blowing hot steam into the room, but you could hear a little squeak or "bubbling" noise above 8 oz of pressure. Some were noisier than others, and some leaked more depending on where the handle was set. There was only one that there was a constant "whoosh" - which I had replaced last season.



The main goal of the TRVs was to help even out the first/second floor temperature disparity. Someone insulated the attic with fiberglass not too long ago, so while that's an energy efficient thing to do, it threw the balance off...there would be a 6-7 degree temperature difference, which is pretty annoying. I got it to about a 1 degree difference last year by manually adjusting the (leaky) valves. Until I can insulate the whole house, I figure the TRVs will accomplish two goals: 1) not leak, 2) even out the temperature for me, so I don't have to go around manually adjusting valve handles every firing cycle(again)





Venting- I have one main vent (well, two actually) - in the basement. There is a Hoffman 75 and a Gorton #2. I added the Gorton #2 last season.



Previously, I think there was a Dunham Air Eliminator that had failed, and it was replaced with the Hoffman 75. I discovered that the Hoffman 75 was not adequate, so I added more more.



Pressure-wise, I have not gotten above four ounces - this season. I'm sure over the years someone cranked it up, but after all - all the valves are 82 years old - and were of the packless type.



Last season it would be a rare case when my pressuretrol (which i turned down to 1.5psi) would kick in. I bought a vaporstat, but I have not installed it yet (I plan to soon.)

Dave in QCA

Great Job

Nick Ziegler,  great job on installing the valves.  You will like the results. 



Keep us posted as you install your vaporstat and if you proceed to allow the system to create self induced vacuum.