Violent water level and squirting vents

zagor

Hello everyone,

I have two pipe steam system that I've been trying to fix for the last month or so. Initially the near boiler piping was done all wrong (I posted a tread in January with title "Two pipe steam system"). The water level was very unstable and the vent valves would squirt. The water feeder was adding water I dare to say every 10mins.

Somehow I managed to do the near b. piping and I would like to thank all of you guys who helped me by pointing out at the original piping that was totally wrong. I hope I got the piping right, but the problem with extremely violent water level and the squirting main valves is still there.

At some point I spent more than an hour standing in front of the boiler and observing what was going on. A while after the heat goes, when water starts boiling I guess, the water in the glass gauge bounces up and down and it goes on quiet a bit. Then at some point the water level drops very law, the water starts coming out from the vents, let say one minute, then the boiler shuts down and the feeder kicks in. The boiler fires and it goes again in cycle.

I am sure that the valves on water supply to the boiler are ok and there is no leak in the system, I checked for this several times. What I am not sure is about those return pipes and the vent valves. Are they supposed to be this way? Is there enough venting for the system?

There are three valves, Gorton #1, the pressure troll is 2 on main and differential is on 1.5.

Recently I bought a book We got steam heat from Dan Holohan, its very helpful and thorough but unfortunately I didn't understand much about the vaporstat, what does this gadget exactly do?

Does anybody know what is going on with this system?

Thanks

gerry gill

your symptoms sound

Like dirty water or to much pressure..skim and drain and if need be wash out the boiler..you should be using a vaporstat instead of a pressuretrol..also you may be firing to hard for the system..the firing rate may need some tweaking..

nicholas bonham-carter

sqirting vents

i agree with gerry, there are 2 factors here-over-pressure, and dirty water.

do a search here for "skimming", and you will see how to spend several enjoyable saturday afternoons with the boiler!! a floor drain will make it easier.

also i suggest that you get a 0-3 psi gauge [ gaugestore.com], and put it on the same cleaned pigtail as the pressuretrol. i suspect you will want the fine control from a vaporstat sooner or later, so why not now? the gauge will also show you how effective your main venting is.--nbc

crash2009

Skim/Drain/Pressure

Nice job on the oversized drop header.



1-SKIMMING  Looks like you could skim through what I have labeled as a skimmer cap.  Let the boiler cool and remove the cap.  Somewhere over there to the left, where I have labeled Bypass valve, there is a valve you turn on which adds water to the boiler.  What you are going to do is turn the water on very slowly.  The water level in the boiler is going to fill up (you will see the sight glass water level rising) eventually the water will come out the skimmer pipe.  (you might want to make sure the skimmer pipe is not plugged first)  When the water is coming out of the skimmer pipe you are skimming.  The idea is that oil floats to the surface and runs out the skimmer.  Slow skimming is the key, you want the bypass valve turned on ever so slowly that it would take an hour to fill a five gallon pail.  Just a little more than a drip.  For starters, you likely should skim for 4 or 5 five gallon buckets.

2-DRAIN I hope you have a floor drain.  Looks like a pretty big boiler.  Will have lots of water in it.  Hookup a garden hose to the boiler drain, and let her go.  You should likely flush your wet returns also, Hopefully your installer left you some way to do that.  I can't see from your pictures if he did.  Maybe start a new thread for drain and flush, there is a lot to it.



3-PRESSURE  Looks like you have a steel pigtail.  Steel pigtails will plug sooner than brass.  Disconnect the wires inside the pressuretrol, remove the pressuretrol, remove the pigtail.  Take the pigtail over to the workbench and figure out how to clean it.  They are not easy.  Its easier to go get a new one made out of brass (red brass preferrably)  While you have all that down for the count, you might as well plan on an upgrade.  Here is a rough diagram of how to add a low pressure gauge.  Most of us use the Wika 0-3psi.  Next year when it comes time to see if the pigtail is plugged, all you have to do is take out the gauge and blow in the hole.  Remember to prime (add a little water) the pigtail before you put the gauge back on. 

RJ_4

squirting vents

I agree with everyone on cleaning boiler, Also check boiler fill press. high fill press. can collapse boiler water level.  Also relocate air vents from end of riser to horizontal piping,  see page 115 in lost art of heating book,  or Peerless boilers color of steam book.

crash2009

That's a great idea RJ

Get those main vents away from the end.  Here is a picture of the first antler I built.

zagor

Vaporstat

Would somebody please explain into details how to use a vaporstat instead of pressuretroll to control the pressure on a steam boiler.

Thanks