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Redesign my header
steve_173
Member Posts: 140
This is getting redone as a drop header.
How much higher do I want the risers? 6" minimum?
Do I need swing joints on both risers?
Does the design of the drop matter or are two elbows and close nipple ok? Is a larger offset better? What about the height of the drop?
Do you see anything else I should look out for?
I'm guessing the offset will bring the header into the room away from the boiler? How much of a safety issue is that hot header? Or should the header go inward toward the chimney as now it can be above it?
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/albumweb100/indirect">https://sites.google.com/site/albumweb100/indirect</a>
Thanks in advance.
How much higher do I want the risers? 6" minimum?
Do I need swing joints on both risers?
Does the design of the drop matter or are two elbows and close nipple ok? Is a larger offset better? What about the height of the drop?
Do you see anything else I should look out for?
I'm guessing the offset will bring the header into the room away from the boiler? How much of a safety issue is that hot header? Or should the header go inward toward the chimney as now it can be above it?
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/albumweb100/indirect">https://sites.google.com/site/albumweb100/indirect</a>
Thanks in advance.
0
Comments
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You have some flexibility
when setting up a drop header.
If the header itself is to stay at its current level, you will need to extend the risers above that level. 6 inches would be plenty for the 2-inch riser but I am not sure it would do for the 3-incher. We would arrive on this sort of job with every available length of nipple and every possible fitting that might be needed, and determine the best way to put it together.
Both risers need to be dropped, using two elbows per riser. For the offset, I would suggest a minimum length of 6 inches. The drop from the elbow turning down into the header can be as short as a close nipple or even a street elbow.
If you're going to insulate the header- and you should- the hot pipes won't be an issue.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Ok now?
https://sites.google.com/site/albumweb100/header3
Some other questions. This is a TR-50 with a Midco EC-300. I only need roughly 280MBTU input to get the TR-50H output (742 sq ft steam). Should the EC-300 be turned down? Or is there some benefit to running it at the full 300MBTU input and cranking a little more steam out of the boiler? Efficiency drops some according to the Slant/Fin table and the cycles might be shorter. What is the suggested method to set the Midco? Set the air shutter first and then the manifold pressure or vice versa, tweaking until the flame looks best? Midco gave me the theoretical specs for various input settings in the 250-300MBTU range.
So far, the boiler water level is a bit jumpy. Skimming needed? Too high a steam pressure setting? I noticed that the radiators are not getting as hot at the end near to the vent. I’ve not cranked it very high temperature-wise. I’m not sure that matters as steam should be everywhere. This is single-pipe steam.0 -
If you only need 742 square feet
then down-firing is appropriate.
BUT- that burner, like all burners, MUST be tuned with a digital combustion analyzer. Never try to set it up by eye- the eye cannot see carbon monoxide.
Every boiler installation or service company should have an analyzer and know how to use it. If your installer does not, try the Find a Contractor page of this site to locate someone who does.
Some water level fluctuation in the sight glass is normal, but it shouldn't be zooming way up or down. If it does, it's time to skim it.
The header looks great!All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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