intermittent lockouts

Patchogue Phil_2

dual-ing burners?

Any chance the lockout occurs when both oil burners fire at same time?



I have heard of one burner getting "starved" for oil while the other is firing at same time.  Usually happens when they share a single oil supply line and it is partially clogged/narrowed by years of gunk buildup,  or from a crimp in the line.



It is worth checking out.  perhaps the supply line needs to be blown out back towards the tank.  BTW,  is there a filter at the tank itself that needs to be replaced?

billtwocase

first thing

If the unit is only 2 years old, many of the parts are still under warranty. You may be paying labor, but don't get stuck paying for defective parts. I would also consider someone more experienced? Today's equipment is much easier to troubleshoot and repair. This shouldn't be a season long trial and error process. What burner is on the unit? I wouldn't consider replacing the burner, especially at your expense, when it may not be warranted. I would also start a new thread here for your feedback. It might help to get more feedback.

billtwocase

also

after re-reading your posts, this is work for a pro. The techs should not be telling you to do your own work, especially with high voltage. I don't think it is starving for oil with the 2 units, you would have to prime the burner manually. What are the combustion test readings? Do they use or know what analyzer is?

icesailor

Two units on the same oil line:

Bill, I once had a hair tugger on what he seems to be describing.

Mine was a old oil tank with a under the floor 3/8" oil line. I had replaced the oil boiler with a WGO-5 and then a old Carlin oil fired water heater that had been in for years. The original install was from 1964. There never was a problem. Until I replaced the oil water heater and connected it back up like was before. Then, the water heater started going of occasionally. I had Spin-On's at both burners and they weren't plugging up nor the nozzles. But at the tank, there was (you guessed it) my favorite filter, a Fulflo FB-4 that was always full of black mucous. I tried different things and then changed to a Garber. I still had the problem. Then, I blew out the oil line. The scum and sludge that came out was a lot. The problem went away. The oil pump on the water heater would develop high suction trying to overcome the resistance of the oil line and FB-4 and would suck it through the pump seal on the boiler burner pump. The Spin-on's were always spotless.

Once I replaced the F4B with the Spin On and cleaned out the line, the problem was gone.

I later replaced the line under the floor and then the tank.

billtwocase

it is possible,but

with that control, after 1 recycle due to flame failure, it would latch up. He would also get odors with it huffin and puffin. Chances are the line needs to be blown or replaced. Sounds like they do as little as possible to eliminate the problem

icesailor

Good point:

Good point. When I replaced the boiler, it got a Carlin EZ-2 that I converted to a EZ-1. The old water heater had that lovely ABC thing with a R8184 1024 45 second control. The problems started after I replaced the water heater with a new Bock with a EZ-1 and a 602000 15 sec. control.  The real problem was the oil lines. The house was only used in the summer and had the whole summer to suck air out if the boiler fuel pump.

First, I changed the oil line after blowing it out and to get any unprotected lines from under the floor. Blue NMT.

Then I had to change the tank. The house was on a main road in the town. The oil tank fill was on the side of the house where there was an ally. The house was between a few local watering holes. Someone, just the right size, found the Scully fill cap, and when he (it couldn't be a she) realized it was just the right height for a urinal, took to stopping off on the way from bar to bar or bar to home. He would relieve himself in the urinal pipe. After some unknown ti,e after this commenced, the burners stopped and there was no hot water for the couple from England. I called the fuel company and asked if they had dropped a load of yellow auto diesel and they said no. It didn't smell like diesel either.

A good reason to replace the tank.

End of story.

I don't make this stuff up.

OBTW, the fill pipe that came out of the house was a 1 1/2" pipe, a 1 1/2" 45* and a short nipple with the Scully fill cap. I replaced the 45* with a 90* ell and put a 12" nipple on it. I figured the only way he could continue to use the fill as his personal urinal, he would have to cart a step ladder around with him. Or he belonged in a circus if he could reach it. The husband owner agreed.

billtwocase

sometimes

you gotta just shake your head and laugh. Funny story Ice. Locking caps are also a big plus in situations like that, especially when there is a garden hose that hangs close by. Been there done that with feuding neighbors some years back. After 2 tank fulls of water, locking scully it was

BigLou70

Next Step

  Ok. I received the new R7284 controller and swapped it. I took the old controller apart and found one relay failed/failing as there was rattling around inside it. I can now reset the burner through a power cycle. The controller didn't fix the intermittant lockout, but now I can use it's diagnostics which flash 3 times, suggesting, according to the manual, fuel valve failure, which I'm doubting, or the cad-cell. I'm almost certain of the cell being the problem because there are times when it gets a call for heat, the burner isn't turning on, and the controller light is solid green?!?!

  Thankfully, the weather is warming, so I'm going to take my time and do what I can.

  BTW: My personal professional experience is as an automation technician for over 20yrs. The units warranty was for 1 year.