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Venting options....

I was hoping to get some opinions on what my options might be to vent my system. I have attached a crude drawing, but as you can see, there is currently only 1 vent on the end of the return in a tee. I have no head room there, but could use a street ell and extend out. I am not really in a position to cut the retun to put the vent further down line. Also, there were 2 radiators fed from the riser right before it u turns to the return. Thos units were removed and the t was plugged. That would be a easy spot to vent if it made any sense. Thanks for any help with this. My current vent ( M o M #1) doesn't seem to let any air out at all. I never hear anything anyway...



John

Comments

  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,572
    Venting required!

    If the headroom is tight, maybe you can mount the vent on the vertical drop to the wet return. The present vent is not big enough, and has probably been fatally hit by water-hammer up from below. It could also be on an antler which could be long enough on 3/4 in. Pipe to put in a joist space. What about the venting for the other main, which appears to be counter-flow? There should be vents at each end, or in a pinch you could vent the end radiators with Groton d's. You will probably see some increase in comfort and heating response; as well as decrease in fuel cost (especially with low pressure).--NBC
  • avmech_2
    avmech_2 Member Posts: 5
    Vents

    Can anyone help with figuring out how much venting I need here? I would love to squeeze a few more dollars out of my oil money. Thanks
  • MJ_in_centralPA
    MJ_in_centralPA Member Posts: 20
    are you going to vent the L side of the diagram?

    i will refer you to an old post that I put up

    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/139404/main-vent-questions

    I believe you don't have to vent anything after ~18 in from the last riser, but if you can't get access to the pipe right after the last riser guess you need to vent the whole thing

    in your case, 2" has 0.023 cf/running foot x 32' (16 1/2 main +18" + 14' return) = 0.736 cf

    i have heard/read optimal venting time is ~3 minutes

    per this post http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/132665/Bryant-235BAW-cleaning-procedure

    Hoffman 75 will vent 0.5cfm at 1oz, Maid-O-mist #1 vents 0.33cfm at 1oz, a Gorton #2 will vent 1.1cfm at 1oz

    I would put a union in somewhere so you can remove vents if you need to check them out
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    edited January 2012
    If it were mine

    I would install 1 or 2 Gorton #1's at the end of the 16+14.  Put it up as high as you can get it, maybe on the "low profile antler".  Each Gorton #1 vents at .330 cubic feet



    Over on the left of the diagram in what appears to be a counterflow main, I would drill and tapp the riser for a Gorton C radiator vent.  I don't see any measurements for this area, and you did say all mains were 2".  The 2 C's will vent .270 cubic feet each.



    Anyway this will help you get the thread started,
  • avmech_2
    avmech_2 Member Posts: 5
    Vents

    The left side of the diagram is a 2 X 1-1/4 X 1-1/4 Tee. The main comes in at 2" and feeds the radiators with 1-1/4 pipe. The section noted as 14" is 1-1/4 pipe, the other is 2". The right side of the diagram, the 2" makes a turn to the 1-1/4 and back to the boiler. I haven't been able to determine if the current vent even works yet as I haven't been home when the unit was coming to life. Thanks for the assistance!
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    edited January 2012
    Gotcha

    The 2" main bullheads into the 1.25.  Right now, how well are the radiators heating over on the left side of the diagram? (3, 4, 5, 6.).  Lets give them names so we all know what we are talking about.  While we are at it How are the other groups doing (1, 2.) and (7, 8, 9).  Here is the shortcut to the venting sheet you were looking for.    http://www.ypgmedia.com/heatinghelp/    This is where I got it from.    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/133714/Excel-Heating-Calc-Program-jpf321  Do you have a digital camera?
  • avmech_2
    avmech_2 Member Posts: 5
    Vents

    Thanks for the reasoned reply. All the rads heat all the way accross right now. I am not having any cold radiator problems. I just ordered 3 Gorton 1's that I will put on an antler where the current MOM #1 is located. Other than the radiator takeoff that is plugged at the end of the 2" main, It would require significant effort to vent. I have actually cruised craigslist for a pipe threader in the event I need to cut in and add venting somewhere, but that would be a springtime project anyway. right now I am trying to squezze some heat out of my #2 oil dollars rather than give them away. When I moved in I had no insulation whatsoever after the asbestos was removed. I have that taken care of now with some Knauff 1" "earthwool" insulation. I am very happy with the results. My wife complains about the cold basement, but that is a story for another day. I am waiting for a new battery charger fo rmy camera. Once that shows up I can take some pictures and post to this thread. Thanks for all the help once again. There really is much to learn!



    John
  • MJ_in_centralPA
    MJ_in_centralPA Member Posts: 20
    ouch nunber #2 oil

    i know the pain of heating oil well....$6000 well for a poorly heated house 3K house

    thank god I was able to switch to NG with a new awesome midco ec300 to lessen the pain...
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    edited January 2012
    Less expensive

    way to improve venting.  Rather than chopping the main, threading, union, etc.,  simply drill a hole, I think I used an 11/32 for a 1/8 tapp (check at the hardware store for the correct size) then screw in a high capacity radiator vent such as the Gorton C or D. 
This discussion has been closed.