Replacement parts for steam supply valve

Luv'nsteam

I need to replace the seals (main and packing) and the handle for this valve.  The OE handle was wood and I prefer a replacement made of wood and I need a few others, too.  Yes, I can buy a new valve but the valve and its components are OK, it's original to my steam system and I want to keep it if I can find parts.  Any ideas?



Thank you,

Mike 

Rod

Radiator Valve Parts

Hi - Try a local large heating /plumbing supply for both items. If you can't find something there, try McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com   Look under "EPDM washers" or "silicone rubber washers" and you should be able to find something that will fit. 

    For packing again try the local hardware or supply store. McMaster has it but you have to buy a long length.  I've made my own using teflon plumbing tape which I rolled (twisted)  into a string and coated with silicone grease. 

Use about 3 turns clockwise around the stem.

- Rod

Mike Kusiak_2

Parts

You can find rubber washers and valve packing at Mcmaster.com. They have just about any conceivable material for repair purposes.



If they don't have the size of washer you need, they also sell sheet rubber if you want to cut your own washers. EPDM rubber works well for steam.



Do you know anyone who does woodworking? Anyone with a lathe can make new handles for you.

Hap_Hazzard

Wooden hand wheel

You can probably make a nice hand wheel without a lathe. Just get a 5/16–3/8 thick piece of whatever kind of wood you like and use a Forstner bit to cut the recess for that pice of metal with the square hole in it, then get a hole saw and punch out a circle, using the center left by the Forstner bit to center the pilot drill. Then drill the two shallow holes for those locating pegs. Then sand the edges until you get the look you want and finish it with oil or Butcher's wax.

nicholas bonham-carter

Valve repair

Since the valve should not ever be shut off except for service work, I would just repack the stem nut, and remove the old washer, as it won't be needed.--nbc

Luv'nsteam

Parts ideas

Thanks for the ideas.  I prefer that all parts function correctly but, NBC, you make a valid point about the valve only being needed for service.  However, it is possible the rad may get shut off if the room it is in does not need heat (my family is shrinking - the kids are moving out. Woo hoo!  just kidding, sort of).



Thank you,

Mike

nicholas bonham-carter

shutting off a radiator

if you need to shut it off, then just turn the vent upside down [at least my hoffmans are like that].--nbc

Dave in QCA

rebuilding valves

A number of years ago, I lived in an apartment with steam heat.  In this particular building, it had a 2-pipe system and every time the boiler ran, it ran until considerable pressure was built up.  Even on my 2 pipe radiators with a 3/4" valve in the off position, enough steam leaked through the valve to heat the rad to heat most of the radiator. 

With permission of the owner, I removed the valve and capped the pipe so that I could work on it.  Took to the shop, put it in a vice and heated it up so that it would come apart.  Took the stem down to a shop that specializes in hard to find plumbing parts and tried to find a washer for the stem.  All that were of the right material, hard composit rubber, were too large or too small of diameter.  I took a washer that was on the large size and ground down the edges on a fine bench grinder.  The packing was not too bad, but I steel wooled the stem to get it clean and shiny, added a little more string type packing and put it all back together.  It worked perfectly!



nbc, I get what you're saying about turning the vent upside down, but isn't the reason that we recommend that people not use the main valve on one pipe steam, because almost all valves are old and leaky?  As a result, they can fill up a radiator with condensate over time.  It would seem that a properly functioning valve would present no problem.  And, of course if this is 2 pipe, there is no concern with that anyway.

Luv'nsteam

Controlling the heat

NBC, all of my air vents are new Gorton's, if that makes a difference.  I also prefer not to rotate any threaded thing (the air vent) to control the flow of steam.



Dave, I appreciate your tenacity to accomplish your mission of a properly functioning supply valve.  Thank you for the idea - I may do the same thing if I am unable to locate a correctly fitting seal.  For the packing, I can get teflon cord.  Do you think that will work effectively with the steam or should I look for something else? 



Thanks,

Mike



P.S. Dave, thanks for posting your thoughts on vapor-vacuum steam heat (I was reading that thread when you replied to this one).  I am working towards that myself, with a 'modernized' Paul system.  However, it is taking me forever to get it done, but get it done I will and I will also post all of my results.

Luv'nsteam

My old valve, reborn

Finding seals was a chore I gave up on. I decided to fabricate my own seal and I think it worked out fine. What I did was, after a fruitless search for a 'drop in' seal, I picked up these big guys from Ace. The ID of the rubber matches the OD of the center shaft where the seals sit. I then cut the OD down to match - scissors worked well for this. I then used my Dremel (great tool, btw) with a small wire wheel followed by soap n water. I assembled the seals, one at a time (needed two to equal approximate thickness of OE seal) with red high-temp silicone I had left over from the 4" flange on my boiler header. For the stem seal, I found that at Ace, too. Time will tell if it holds up, but it is no big deal to replace it if need be. The wooden handle is bit more challenging. I do have a friend who likes to tinker, has a wood lathe, is retired and when we get together, we shoot guns. Always a fun time - now to get over to him. : )



Thank you,



Mike

Dave in QCA

Valve Renewed!

Excellent job on rebuilding the valve.  You followed nearly the same path as I did.  Finding parts that were close, and then trimming them to fit the valve.  It looks fantastic and is surely good for another 100 years!

Luv'nsteam

Renewed valve

Thanks Dave!



In case anyone is curious, the paint is Rustoleum, hammered copper. All rads on first floor are the same color as well. So far, it has held up well.



Thank you,



Mike

Dave in QCA

Rustoleum Paint

Looks great!  I have not used that color, but I have used Rustoleum Antique Brass and another one that is either called Dark Bronze or Antique Bronze.  I like the look of the metalic colors, they are similar to some of the old bronze paints that were available to radiators 100 years ago.  I have found them to be very durable and generally a good finish.

Luv'nsteam

Rustoleum paint

I recently sold an old tube type radiator that years ago we painted with Rustoleum Antique Bronze. I liked it, but the wife didn't. So guess what? We did not use it again. Anyone wanna buy 1/2 qrt of paint? lol



As for other colors, they do make some pretty cool metalics these days. Gotta love new technology!! (so long as it's not used against the citizens, that is). : )



Thank you,



Mike