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Boch 40 gallon ct's

ed_17 Member Posts: 12
We have an almost 9 year old Boch 40 gallon indirect water heater.  For the last couple of months the hot water has been too hot.  I noticed on top of the tank the Nipple is pretty corroded and when I took the anode rod cap off and scraped the foam away it is corroded as well and there seems to be water leaking arournd the bolt for the anode.  I'm afraid to put a socket or wrench to the bolt for the anode, it looks like it will crumble.  Does it sound like the anode can be replaced?  It has never been done before, and that's probably why it's in this condition.  I'm disappointed that an indirect like this Boch is failing.  I tried to take the pressure relief valve off to get a look inside at the anode but it's seems to be frozen on. 


  • ed_17
    ed_17 Member Posts: 12

    I took the anode bolt off and was able to pull the anode off.  Only thing left is the wire and there is a fair amount of crud attached to the bottom of it.  It looks like the leak might be coming from the nipple (hot water side).  Am i going in the right direction on this if I replace the the 3/4" nipple and the anode rod?  Ed
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    I would

    call someone in. It may be a warranty issue? I put a few in when they first came out probably about 13-15 years ago, and wasn't impressed enough to install anymore of them. If you can go brass nipples, do so. You may need to make up a dip tube. 
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,078
    There is no knowing...

    ... how much damage has happened in the tank, but I think you're right to replace the anode and hot nipple to try and keep the thing going.  Check the anode again in one year.  It should be replaced when six inches of the core wire is visible.  Now if it's a warranty issue, that's a different ball-o-wax.

    Yours,  Larry
  • ed_17
    ed_17 Member Posts: 12
    edited January 2012

    I replaced the dielectric nipple and the anode with an aluminum one.  The water at the tap is no longer coming out too hot.  I was all set to put a mixing valve in but now the indirect seems to be working fine.  Would a small pin hole leak in the nipple cause the water to run hotter?  As I put the anode in I felt around with it and there did not seem to be much crud in the tank.  I did notice that the anode rod cap  has condensation inside of it that was not there before.  Is this the water that was leaking and being held inside the foam insulation.  If i leave the anode cap off for awhile will this get rid of it?  I tightened up the hex fitting and used tape and pipe dope to seal it.   There was some blockage in the 3/4 copper threaded connect right above the nipple.  I replaced that with a new one when replacing the nipple.  Thanks for the heads up on the dip tube.  Thanks for your replies,  Ed
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