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Munchkin Leak

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This is on an 8 year old Munchkin 140M that I've been servicing for a few years now where condensate leaks out of the base of the boiler and no condensate flows through the condensate trap.  The boiler is up on a small platform and I can see the water coming out of a hole in the molded plastic base of the unit, dripping down onto the rubber trap and then onto the metal stand where it accumulates and eventually drips onto the floor making a big mess.



I thought there might be some kind of internal overflow as on an a/c unit, so I cleaned out the trap, drain and neutralizer, but it was all clear and continued to leak after I put it back together.  I called HTP and they said there might be a leak where the trap attaches to the drain, but the trap disappears into the base before I see any point of attachment.



I'm thinking that I will have to disconnect the entire unit to see what's going on, but I've never removed the heat exchanger from the molded plastic enclosure.  Since no condensate is reaching the trap, could it be that it's leaking through a new hole in the bottom of the combustion chamber?  Can the heat exchanger be easily removed to inspect the combustion chamber?  Any other ideas or experiences?
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab

Comments

  • Slimpickins
    Slimpickins Member Posts: 341
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    had same issue

    I had same deal except it was new boiler and I found upon commissioning it. Fortunately it was on an aluminum pedestal and I was able to cut a hole underneath to access. The trap assembly had been pulled to the left side to secure on the side of the case and the stainless barb cut into the rubber trap. Of course my supplier didn't have one in stock. Incidentally, that was my last Munchkin install. 



    Can you access from under the unit? If not, I think I'd just remover the whole boiler to do it and make it accessible underneath for in the future
  • Mpj
    Mpj Member Posts: 109
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    Leak

    I had the same problem. Like the previous post said the leak maybe coming from the rubber drain hose. I could not get access to the bottom of the boiler because of the steel platform. I removed the boiler (less than 20 minuets) cut the old drain hose and installed the replacement. The condensate drains from the exchanger to a barbed fitting which the drain hose connects to. The repair is fairly easy to do. Good luck
  • Steve Whitbeck
    Steve Whitbeck Member Posts: 669
    edited January 2012
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    Alan

    Is this boiler on Propane?

    Push back the insulation under the heat exchanger and look back as far as you can.

    There may be holes in the bottom pan of the stainless steel heat exchanger.

    On LP the gianoni (SP) heat exchanger creates a buildup of gunk on the bottom pan that along with the acidic condensate will eat holes in the SS bottom pan.

    I have seen this many times. Usually caused by exhaust gas reversion.

    Exhaust gas reversion causes the condensate to become highly acidic.

    Never use a concentric vent termination on any Mod - Con boiler.

    always have at least 18 inches of vertical seperation between the exhaust and intake piping.
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
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    Munchkin Leaker

    Thanks for all the great information, guys!



    This is an older unit, so I don't think it was an error at the factory.  And the fuel is NG, not propane.



    I'll pull it out tomorrow and see if I can find the problem.  And I'm taking a replacement trap with me, if my supplier has one.



    Alan
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • AlHeating
    AlHeating Member Posts: 17
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    Follow-up

    Keep us posted please!  I'm so curious to see what happened!  lol
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
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    I was told

    by HTP that if I disconnected the Munchkin and flipped it over, the trap connections would be made accessible.



    What do you think?
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
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    Rev. 1

    So, this is a revision 1 boiler it's 11 years old and HTP has learned a lot since they started making them and now have accessible connections at the base of the unit.  Bravo to HTP.



    I couldn't find anything wrong with the drain and trap assembly; lucky for me because the spring coupling connecting the trap and drain nipple are between the plastic housing and the bottom of the combustion chamber, very difficult to get to with any kind of tool.



    When I took off the 3" No-Hub coupling that connected the exhaust to the PVC piping, I saw that it was badly deteriorated (see photos).  This is not a normal NH coupling, but one that is provided by HTP, supposedly one that holds up to higher temperatures and low pH levels.  Anyway, it was trashed and it ends up being the source of the leak.  The condensate is somehow forming at the exhaust outlet and not even dropping down to the bottom of the fire box and then leaking out of the flue connection.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
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    That is U G L Y....

    and there are a million appliances out there with the same connector on it.



    Another point of inspection to be added to the list.



    I wonder if a silicone sleeve would hold up to the temperature/pH better.



    ME

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

This discussion has been closed.