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Buderus g125be

rtran
rtran Member Posts: 11
My old system Burnham v7 with amtrol DHW have some leak installed in 2003, still under warranty.  Burnham will replace it with v8.  Should I go with the replacement?

I am also think about Buderus G125BE with logamatic 2107 with Buderus SST stainless steel tank 65gallon.  Need help on how to configure the system.

Outside reset? main floor reset?  Chimney vs direct-vent?

My house is 1994 colonial with 2400sqft.  Well insulated with R50 in attic.  Double panel window, and all new entry door this years.  I will do a heat loss calculation and will compare it with my 3 contractors.  I am thinking G125BE 21 should be enough.

Thank in advance for all you help.

Comments

  • rtran
    rtran Member Posts: 11
    sizing

    I did my heat loss calculation it come out to be around 55,000 BTU.  Here are the three proposals that I got from three different contractors.

    1. His heat loss calculation come out 52,000.  He want to put in G125be 28 with logamatic 2107, 6 inch stain steel chimney liner, and  40gallon SST stainless steel DHW.

    2. His heat loss calculation come out to 75,000 cause he did not factor in the R-19 value of my floor so it is a little off.  He want to put in G125be 28 with logamatic, 5 inch stain steel chimney liner, and 40gallon SST stainless steel DHW.

    3. He did a heat loss calculation but did not give me a figure.  He want to put in G125be 34 with logamatic, 5 inch stain steel chimney liner, and 80gallons DHW.

    price wise they are about $1000 different in price.  If my heat loss is about 55,000 BTU then why none of my contractor tell me to put in G125be 21.  Will this give enough hot water for family of 6.  two adult, 2 teen, 2 kids.  My wife and my daughter like long hot show.  Please help.  Thanks.
  • Robert O'Brien
    Robert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,563
    Don't

    oversize the boiler! There are fudge factors in the software,so that 55K is actually more like 35 or 40K. If you feel the need for more DHW,go with a larger indirect  or keep it at a higher temp and mix it down. Or both
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Burnham Will Also

    Rebate you back the valve of what is left on the warranty if you install the MPO-IQ. Personal think the best bang for the buck. Simple card adds outdoor reset. Don't think you would recoup the added expense going with the GB if the MPO is installed and set up correctly.

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  • rtran
    rtran Member Posts: 11
    thanks

    Thanks for your advices.  I have the same thinking of not to oversize, just was not sure having enough hot water, and want to make sure hot water don't ran out for my wife.

    So I will ask one of my contractor to go with G125be 21 (73,000btu) with 65gallons SST stainless steel tank and mixing valve.

    Since Buderus SST stainless steel tank is fairly new, is there any problem/feedback of it with the logamatic 2107.  Or should I go with Buderus ST model?

    Should I be worry about chlorine with stainless 316.  I checked the water report in my town for 2010 and it chlorine is up to 4ppm.

    I hear lot of good things about Buderus ST tank but don't like to have to change anode yearly.



    Going with Burnham MPO would save my 3000 total including 1100 rebate from Burnham.  But I don't know if I want to because 16 years two Burnham gone.  One was intall in 1994 when house was build.  In 2003, I had to replace it since I was not the original owner.  And now another one.  I kind of loss my fate in Burnham eventhrough I hear lot of good review about their MPO.



    Thank you.
  • furnacefigher15
    furnacefigher15 Member Posts: 514
    2 bad in 16 years!!!!

    Something is wrong with the installation. Not enough flow of water, oil way over fired, no expansion knuckle in piping, something, a leak somewhere else causing too much fresh water.



    A typical cast iron boiler should last well over 30 years, especially in a residential application.



    I would be very curious to the cause of the crack, to be sure what ever replacement you choose does not suffer a similar fate.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    Guess

    You haven't be around long enough to have experienced the V7 run. Bad casting my friend.

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  • furnacefigher15
    furnacefigher15 Member Posts: 514
    I'm not in oil country

    I live in the Midwest. Only oil I deal with is for duel fuel applications, and most of those are abandoning the oil side.



    Only time I ever see premature cast iron failure here is from misapplication.
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,086
    MPO

    Is the same type of 3-pass iron design as the Buderus. You cannot compare with a V7. Totally different iron and totally different process in making the iron. They also stood by their mistake with the V7.

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  • rtran
    rtran Member Posts: 11
    Thanks

    For all your feedback. Does G125be with logamatic come with low water cut off and high temp limit for boiler protection. If not, can you put one in to work with logamatic? Thank
  • bill nye_3
    bill nye_3 Member Posts: 307
    2107

    2107 Logamatic comes with two terminals provided for LWCO. From the factory there is a jumper between the terminals, when you install a LWCO you remove the jumper and make the connection. The LWCO is not supplied, you need to buy your own but the wiring is very simple.
  • rtran
    rtran Member Posts: 11
    Update

    Hello,

    Want to thank for all your helps and advices.  I went with Buderus G125BE/21, Logomatic control, low water cutoff, 3 Taco 008VDT, Spirovent microbubble, and all other safety devices, 5 inches SS Liner to the chimney, outside air.  Also with Buderus SST 65 gallon DHW set at 140F with mix down valve to 120F

    I also order and read up on Classic Hydronic.  Thanks Dan, it really help me understand how hydronic work as I have no clue prior.  Every homeower should have a copy.

    The system was put in 2/8/12.  It is a excellent units, every quiet, save on fuel.  My wife love the unlimited hot water.  It have only been running for 180 hours (use about 108 gallon at 0.6 GPH) for two months. stack temp: 300, CO2: 13.5, smoke 0.

    My service company is coming over tomorrow to take look at why the basement is a little smell/oder.  I noticed it after the installation but want to wait and see until now.  What do you think could be the problem.  Is it because of draft, backpressure, too air, or not enough pump pressure?  Thanks
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