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Water Hammer/Gurgling

Hello all,



I have a one pipe steam heating system powered by a oil fired peerless boiler.  I have two radiators that gurgle at the beginning of the heating process. These two radiators are at the end of the main vents in opposite direction. I have checked the pitch of the radiators with a 9 inch torpedo level.  They are both exactly leveled.  I know that radiators are supposed to be sloped downwards towards the supply.



I have another radiator on the 2nd floor which is exhibiting water hammer. This radiator clanks at the beginning and end of a heating session, but not while it is completely filled with steam. I checked with a torpedo level and this radiator is sloped downwards toward the supply line.  I also checked with the level horizontally while looking at the radiators front (only seeing 1 tube section) and it appears to be lob sided.  Would this cause the water hammering issue?



In order to fix the two gurgling radiators I would have to shim the bottom of the legs so that the radiator slopes downwards toward the supply line. I have searched the site and no one has really detailed the process on how to do this.  Would I have to remove the couple between the valve and the radiator before I can shim the radiator? Can I use a 2x4 and fulcrum to lift up the radiator with quarters or some other type of shim while its attached to the valve?



I just want to make sure of these things before I engage in the activity as I would not want to damage anything.



Also when I changed some of the vents on my radiators, there appears to be water in the vents themselves. Is this normal?

Comments

  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    make sure that ..

    the supply valves (near the floor) are fully opened .. and if you think they are fully opened, they may not be since it's possible for the valve guts to break off in the valve (as I understand it) .. the most likely cause of your troubles (besides the wrong pitch) is having a supply valve partially closed ..



    in 1-pipe steam floor valves should be fully opened ALWAYS .. not really sure why they even install valves rather than elbows ..



    in terms of shimming the rad .. yes .. lift gently and smoothly .. shim with a few quarters .. no need to disconnect the union .. chances are you would have a bear of a time reconnecting it .. hopefully the supply pipes aren't grouted tight into a tile floor (yes it happens) .. there's usually enough play to get a pitch on them without much difficulty.



    don't over pitch .. just enough so the water has a sense of downward .. not necessarily downhill ..
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • JohnnyDebt
    JohnnyDebt Member Posts: 10
    edited December 2011
    Thank you

    Hey, I'm also in Queens NYC, thank you for your help. I will try to shim the radiators and tilt them into position with a 2x4 and some books.



    The radiators that have problems are all sitting on hardwood floors, so no tiles and no grout problem.



    I checked all the radiators and made sure that all valves were completely turned counter clockwise for them to be open.  For me to check if the valves are functioning correctly,  would I need to take the valve apart?
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,576
    edited December 2011
    gurgling and clanking

    you might also check the main [not rad] vents. in a parallel flow system, they help to keep the route of the escaping air mostly in the mains, instead of the risers and radiators. what is the pressure the system is running at?--nbc
  • JohnnyDebt
    JohnnyDebt Member Posts: 10
    Thank you

    system is running at .5psi to 1psi. I don't think that I have any main vents.  The main is about 46 feet long, the boiler in the middle of the mains that carry the steam.  The main pipe goes behind a wood panel walls and I can't see behind this.
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    wherebouts?

    wherebouts in Queens, I always like to see steam systems if you want to invite me over.
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
    check mains

    make sure your mains are pitched too and that sags in the main haven't developed.
This discussion has been closed.