Boiler help

dpframing

I have 2 small identical Burnham boilers installed new in 2003: one for the first floor and one for the second floor. The first floor boiler performs like a top. The second floor boiler is a different story.

For the first time in 8 seasons, I get a small steady leak from the pressure relief valve, so much so that I have to keep a bucket under it. Also this is the first year I raised the aquastat to 180 degrees. I paid a heating company here in Brooklyn $140 to tell me there was too much water in the system. They drained it, the pressure went down, the leak disappeared FOR ONE NIGHT. The problem was back the next day. The system is 20lbs. cool and it goes up to 40lb. hot. That's why the 30 lb rated valve is leaking. The 2 bladder expansion tanks (Watts ET-15) sound different  from each other when I tap them to hear if they're full. They are both installed upside -down with the air valve on the top and the thread mount on the bottom.The good one sounds empty on top and  OK on the bottom . The one on the problem boiler sounds solid as if full  tapping it on the top and empty on the bottom.

My question is: first does it matter if a bladder tank is installed upside down, and, should I replace the tank on the problem boiler as a first step to solve the problem?  

 

add

Bad expansion tank

   yes you are right,the tank is bad that is way the prv is leaking,you paid $140.00for nothing they should have found that ,and also tested your water feeder.A lot of people have different ideas how to install expansion tanks i do the way you have it. good luck.

Mike Kusiak_2

Solid tank

It definitely sounds like you have a bad tank. When the internal diaphragm ruptures, the air inside escapes and is replaced with water. Without the air cushion there is no place to accommodate the expansion of the water as it is heated, so the pressure increases until the relief valve releases. Replacing the tank should solve your problem.



Mounting it upside down should not be an issue.

furnacefigher15

Expansion tank

As others have said, the tank is the issue.



To be 100 percent certain, a simple test is to put a tire gauge on the air valve and see if you get water out. If water comes out, then you need a new tank. If nothing comes out the tank may be salvageable

icesailor

Boiler Help/No Brainer:

They must have sent the rookie in training on your service call. If I missed that call, I'd be back and do the first hour for free and charge you for a new tank.

Here's the Third World way to check it. Like we do out in the back country.

All you need is a common cheap tire pressure gauge. The 50# ones are all you need. You probably already have one.

Close the fill valve on the boiler and close the can vents. They should be closed anyway after you vent. A washing machine hose in a 5 gallon bucket usually does it. Open the drain valve. The water will probably stop almost instantly. That is the first clue that the tank is shot. Put the tire gauge on the Schrader Valve on the tank. If it reads zero, the tank is shot. If it reads lower than 12#, it may be OK. Take a tire air tank and pump air into the tank. If it won't take air, the tank is shot. Try the one that you think is good. That one should have 12# pressure.

Replace the tank. I haven't had good luck with Watts tanks. I only use Amtrols.

If the system is a cold start, it probably should have been a #30. If you try to change the broken one, watch out. It is very heavy.

I would replace them both. The other one will fail soon. In my experience.

Ron Jr._3

Ahh , Brooklyn

I remember fondly , installing boilers in the King's . I also remember ceilings being very high . Was the pressure jacked up to 20 psi cold cause there was air problems on the 2nd floor ? Everyone gave very good advice . I'd also recommend changing the relief valve to a 40 psi version , as long as the operating pressure of the boiler can be higher . Most hot water boilers we install are rated to 50 psi operating pressure .