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Oil Problem ?

xxxxxx Member Posts: 7
I ran into a Burnham V-14 Oil fired hot water boiler that has been acting up. The boiler has been neglected to say the least for some period of time, What cleaning or service it has seen ( besides absolute emergency service ) has been done by the homeowner. Upon firing it may run for half a cycle or so and starts to lose flame but not enough to lockout kind of pulsating flame. Rather than a top to bottom cleaning opted for filter, pump screen w/gasket and a nozzle as his only line of defense. Boiler calls for 1.00 x 80 B but found in its place .85 x80B. After changing all of the above and staying with that same size nozzle of .85x 80B.  Problem still persists, the system has an outdoor tank and did notice some sludge while changing filter ( directly below tank, I did open valve quite a bit until i had  a clean flow for a few seconds. ) All air was purged from oil line and as far as i can tell controls are working properly, cad eye looked basically brand new but flame continues to cut in and cut out . It seems this only occurs after oil has been laying in fuel line stagnant for a while, once moving not really noticing a problem. Owner hasnt had a problem until he recently had oil delivered and it had come from a new company ive been told. Does this seem like a fuel problem or is this just wishful thinking, should i start looking at other possibilities. Any suggestions GREATLY welcomed and APPRECIATED. 


  • lchmb
    lchmb Member Posts: 2,997
    to start

    go back and start where it needs it. A complete cleaning, to include brushing the unit, cleaning the squirrel cage on the burner, burner housing and chamber base. Pull your smoke pipe and make sure it's clear and the thimble into the chimney is clear I like to bleed at least a gallon of oil through a line to make sure it's clear and if in doubt, use my push/pull pump to flush the line completely. Get your guage inline to see what the pump is doing and check the pump pressure also.  After that, get your analyzer out to see how it's running... Also would suggest at least to start, firing the unit to spec. Without testing your only guessing...do it the right way..
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    quality of oil

    I would have it tested. As my friend said, start with a good clean and service. What is your pump pressure? "Z" dimension checked and set? Sounds like your flame may also be floating away. The nozzle size was already dropped, but the pump pressure is 100 PSI, or maybe less. Clean and inspect all supply lines, filters, strainers, etc. Do a vacuum test also. Where does the line feed from at the tank? Any water in the tank, lines?  There is a lot of unturned stones here.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,904
    I'd bet

    the fuel unit is bad. If it's been getting dirty oil for a while it may have simply worn out. If the nozzle line pressure fluctuates but the vacuum at the inlet is within spec and constant, upgrade it to a CleanCut.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
  • Gary_17
    Gary_17 Member Posts: 37
    Don't forget

    to check the pump coupling . It could be stripped.
  • earl burnermann
    earl burnermann Member Posts: 126
    check pump pressure and vacuume

    Sounds like a restriction in the oil line. easiest way to find out is to install a vac gauge and run it. If you bleed the pump during this test it will speed up the symtoms. A high reading on the gauge indicates a clog. A low or bouncing vac gauge reading (with lots of foam coming from the bleader) indicates a vac leak. I use a gauge that screws into the filter canister. Makes checking the vac easy. You should also check your pump pressure. I use a beckett nozzle bulkhead fitting with a 1/8" pressure gauge screwed into it. Just attach it to the nozzle line and start the unit. You should get 100 psi on the gauge. If you get 140 psi and have a .85 nozzle it is delivering 1.00 an hour. If you installed a 1.00 nozzle and didn't check the pump pressure you may be delivering 1.20 gph or more per hour. If your pump pressure is below 100 psi adust it to 100 or what the manufacturer reccomends. Let it run until it goes into safety. Your pump pressure should not drop to 0. Some say it should drop to 50 or 80. The less it drops the better the pump's cut off. And btw, You aslo now know that the safety works. Thats a good thing.

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