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Toyotomi OM-180 Boiler shuts down

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akinfloor
akinfloor Member Posts: 5
in Radiant Heating
I am new to the group, and thank you for looking at my question.



I live in Alaska in a new construction two story home with a walk out basement. There is in-floor heating in concrete on all three floors in addition to a garage (not in use but charged). Each floor is about 900 sq-ft with the 2nd floor loft about 500. There are four zones with one Grundfos pump, there are thermostats on each floor tied toTaco control for each zone, with Honeywell valves.



The zone room is in the basement, and the boiler room is about 8-feet above in the garage. The system is powered by a Toyotomi OM-180 Boiler that is used for the floor only. The hot water uses a instant Rennai. The scoop and tank is in the basement.



The system was first turned in Feb 2011 while the house was still under construction. Using mostly the basement zone, I operated it off the thermostat on the boiler and wired the pump to run 24/7 from the Toyo. The system did run dirty from the start and used more oil than expected. During last it year, it shut down 2 or 3 time ( yellow light mode) I restarted and it went on working.



In August, I tested the boiler and found the it wouldn't run for more than 5 mins or so. I went through the trouble shooting manual checked oil pressure, and bled for air. After calling Toyo tech support who didn't want to speak to me and were pretty rude said it sounded like a bad nozzle and for me to call a Authorized installer. They would not give me any written info.



Anyway, I found a reputable service company (but very expensive). They found the nozzle to not meet testing requirement and the boiler to be very dirty. it was replace (4 hours just for the nozzle) and we purged the system of air.



The unit operated for about 2 -days and started to shut down (yellow light mode). I would restart it and usually it would run for 2-3 hours. On the recommendation of the repair company I created a bridge with a washer hose ( just for testing) between the hot-out and the cold-in return. This is something they aways put in their systems. Also, I have drained the scoop tank and re-pressurized it.



To help they returned and found that during boiler reassembly the thermostat on the boiler was tilted and they repositioned it and it did seem to run longer for a day or so. I have turned off the thermostats and been running back on the boiler's single thermostat.



One of the adjustments that seem to increase the running time has been to increase the zones. If I add a segment it runs longer before it shuts down. Also running it hotter at around 110-ish instead of 85 also seems to make t urn longer before yellow mode.



There is one consistent piece of information and that is when the boiler shuts down Im running at 20psi.



I did speak to a tech ay houseneeds who sold me the boiler and he felt that once the pressure tank was checked, oil coming in, and and the burn quality is good he felt that the 20 psi was not shutting down the boiler. He commented that these units are designed to run as hot water heaters at much higher temps an pressures. He also felt the the pump running all the time was not a problem.



I will attach a few pics of the system for you guys to see. This is driving me nuts and it was

-7 this morning. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks, Peter AKA akinfloor

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