Leaking Radiator - Pics

BobbyC

Noticed a small pool of water where the rad is connected to the feed pipe.  Looks like it's leaking underneath from the threads.  

Any recommendation to fix besides unscrewing and replacing?  looks like it's been screwed on for awhile.   Heard of some epoxy you might be able to use but not sure if anyone has had succes with it.

thanks

Rod

Leaky Radiator

Hi- I blew the picture up but couldn't see anything. Just to check is it at "A", "B" or "C"? (See attached picture)

- Rod

BobbyC

Thanks

Rod. it seems to be leaking from arrow B on the bottom (at least that area was wet last night).  If you look closely you can notice the rust but this is the first time I've seen water pool. 

This rad gave me trouble when the new boiler was installed and we did raise it and adjust pitch with washers.  Not sure if that movement stressed the connection.

Rod

Replacing the Radiator Spud

Hi-  It sounds as though the brass spud has rotted out. This happens over time when you have brass and cast iron together. (IMO in the  case trying to do a "patch" with epoxy is a waste of time and money.) The solution is to replace the valve and spud. These (spud & valve) come as matched pairs. The chance of just replacing the old spud with a new one that will then be tight on the old valve isn't very likely.  First you need to disconnect the radiator from the valve via the spud nut.

I would then split the job into two sections I would replace the spud in the radiator first and then do the valve as this way you can still have the steam on with the valve closed. If the valve is bad, just detach the radiator and replace the valve first.



Tools you'll need:

1. Two pipe wrenches

2. Two "cheaters" - These are pipes (usually 1 1/4 inch - check the fit) that fit over the wrench handles which give you extra leverage. - (I have different cheater lengths from 18 to 48 inches)

3. Spud wrench- This is to tighten the new spud into the radiator bushing. Spud wrenches are available from most hardware stores including Home Dept. These go inside the spud and lock against short nipples on the inside spud wall.

4. Crescent wrench or something similar to loosen the spud nut.

5. Short nipple ( a pipe size below the size of the existing spud).

6. Hack saw

7. Pipe sealant.



The first step is to loosen the spud nut and detach the radiator.

Removing the old spud. (Don't waste your time trying to remove the old spud using a spud wrench as it won't happen and you'll just screw up the spud wrench)

You may want to lay the radiator on its side for this. One wrench on the bushing and the other on the spud. To get a good wrench grip on the spud you may have to saw off the spud nut.  Place the short nipple in the old spud and tap it in with a hammer. The nipple prevents the old  brass spud from collapsing when you apply torque with the wrench.

The rest of the job is pretty straight forward. Take you time aligning the new spud and new valve.

- Rod

BobbyC

Bushing

Rod will the bushing stay the way it is?

BobbyC

size valve and spud to buy

how can i find out the existing spud and valve size so I know what to buy?

Rod

Bushing

It should. I'm assuming the spud is the softer metal.

- Rod

BobbyC

10/4

thanks rod

Rod

Measure the Pipe Circumference

The spud and the steam pipe going onto the valve are standard pipe sizes.

I've attached chart showing the circumference of standard pipe sizes. Use a strip of paper and a pen and wrap the stripo around the pipe you want to measure and make a mark where the end of the strip touches the paper. Use a ruler to measure the marked paper and then check the chart to figure out the corresponding pipe size.

- rod

BobbyC

you rock

thanks