Beckett AF head size

Alarry

Hello,  My 1988 WM boiler is using a Beckett AF burner with .6gph nozzle.  Everything I read tells me the head should be F0 but the head that is installed appears to be F3.  I recently purchased an F0 head and there are no slots along the sides so I suspect the one I have installed is F3 as there are thin slots along the sides.  My last oil guy was doing a horrible cleaning job and last season he tried to rip me off so I decided to clean it myself this year and will have someone else adjust the flame.  Would there be a reason for them to replace the head with one that allows more air through?  Should I install the F0 or just leave well enough alone and install an F3?  The F3 I have on there is a bit mangled which will cause a problem making the Z measurement so I was going to replace it. 

I also have seen many references to draft measurements and dampers but my boiler never had a damper installed.  There is just a straight pipe into the chimney.  Is this something I should be concerned about?

Thanks.

billtwocase

what model W/M?

I would guess that someone has boosted the fuel pump pressure to should be 140 psi, and dropped the nozzle size to .60? I would replace the F-3 head, and adjust the "Z" dimension setting to specs or with a gauge. There should be a barometric damper on the smoke pipe, but it could be on the chimney itself. That was done years ago in some cases. Not the best way to set your overfire/breech drafts. 68 series run best 80 degree hollow nozzle, Gold series 80 degree solid nozzle. More info needed for specs.

bill nye_3

AF ?

AF or AFG?  Is the blower fan wide enough to "fill" the burner , under the transformer ? or is it just 3/4 of the way with a plastic guide ? A black plastic cone shape thing.

If it is an AFG you made need a low fire rate baffle kit , Beckett 5880, for the .60 nozzle.

billtwocase

gotta be

an OEM AFG if it is a Weil in 88. If the pump pressure is still 100 PSI with a .60, yes a low firing rate baffle would help.

Alarry

Addl info

Thanks for the replies.  My boiler is a 66 series P366.  The label on the burner says Beckett A, AF. Tube length 7 1/4. No label on the pump but I suspect it is a Suntec.  No damper in the chimney.  The nozzle installed is .6gph 80 hollow but sometimes they installed a .65gph.  So are you recommending I keep an F3 head on there or replace with F0 which the manual calls for based on the nozzle size?  Maybe the pump pressure is pushing me beyond .75gph output and the F3 head would be appropriate but I looked often for procedures on how to check/adjust pump pressure but was unable to find anything.  Not having any problems with the boiler, just giving it a good detailing and replacing any parts that look bad.  Thanks for all the help.

Jim_47

changing parts

Where are you located? Check the hire a contractor here on this site or post a request for your area here.

Changing a retention head, nozzle size, or adding the low fire baffle SHOULD NOT be done without having the burner set up with a combustion analyzer, especially when your in such a low fire range. Kudos for you when trying to learn how to perform your annual service, but..... There are many things that a qualified burner tech looks for when "cleaning" a boiler and burner.

Cleaning, inspection and testing of an oil heating appliance,  requires more than dusting and vacuuming.   Inspection in my opinion is key. Not only changing a nozzle but inspecting the old one. Flushing the J tube, inspecting the rear of the nozzle for sludge, inspecting the front of the nozzle for debris, and yes even the smell of the nozzle assembly are what is going on when you watch a burner tech at work. Textbooks do not cover half of what is being performed. But still kudos for trying to better yourself.

As a burner tech in a service only business, I enjoy an educated customer. I also bring with me years of seeing hundreds of burners every year. So what I saw at someone elses house applies to your problem. And the answer may not be in a burner tune up guide.

Here is an example: While changing an oil filter, how many burner techs out there are inspecting the oil filter housing bolt? In my 18yrs in this biz, I have found 3 bolts rusted at the point where they penetrate the nut at the bottom of the housing. this has caused one to snap after the other burner company left causing $$$ of damage. After I heard that story I added inspecting that bolt to every Annual cleaning and maintenance call.

Parts wear, combustion chambers deteriorate, enviromental issues change. Oil sources (not companies but sources) change. By working on many systems every year that nozzle size may have been changed for a reason.

Kudos for coming here to ask for assistance, an educated consumer is the best customer.

Alarry

contractor search

Found no listings for CT. I'm not concerned about the nozzle size as it is sized properly based on my combustion chamber dimensions. I was just curious why an F3 head was installed when the specs call for an F0. No problems with the boiler but the head is a bit mangled so I'll replace it with another F3. This head has not been inspected in years. The burner was not being removed when they were servicing it as the bolts on the mounting plate were seized. I recently drilled and tapped and discovered the lower portion of the boiler was holding quite a bit of hardened soot and sediment. The company I had was cleaning the top with a wire brush then sticking a vacuum through the sight hole to clean the bottom. I'm a believer in needing to do everything yourself if you want it done right. I would fill my own teeth if I knew how, just need a bottle of whiskey and a Dremel. I'm ok with doing the grunt work then hiring someone to do the fine tuning. The cost of a cleaning is fairly cheap so I'll likely just have someone else do it next time.  Thanks for the advice.