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Now what???
Hap_Hazzard
Member Posts: 2,846
I'm in the process of replacing my condensate return with new piping. I wanted to start from the elbow at the end of each main. This one had a galvanized nipple to a galvanized union to a galvanized pipe. I got the union apart, removed the pipe, and removed the union from the nipple, but I can't get the nipple out of the elbow. (At this point I'm just kind of taking it on faith that they were, at one time, separate pieces of metal, but I haven't actually seen any evidence to that effect.) I've been trying for hours. I tried heating it, hammering on it and applying lots of torque, but it won't budge, and now the threads are too mangled to screw a coupling on, so it's too late to just leave it.
Is there some trick to getting galvanized pipes apart? I've found all of the pipe joints to be pretty stubborn so far, but this is just unreal.
Is there some trick to getting galvanized pipes apart? I've found all of the pipe joints to be pretty stubborn so far, but this is just unreal.
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
0
Comments
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Breaking Old Pipe Apart
Hi- Breaking old pipe apart isn't easy. With cast iron fittings what I do is pick a female fitting like a elbow, a coupling or a tee at each end of the pipe section I want to replace and crack them off the pipe. I use a sawsall and being careful not to damage the threads, make several strategic cuts in fitting and then crack it apart using a cold chisel and a hammer. You have to be careful not to cut /damage the male threads when removing the fitting. If the pipe is a large size and you wish to save the fitting, you can do it the "other way" by sawing off the pipe close to the fitting (Leave enough to get a wrench or large water pump pliers on) and then use the sawsall to make several cuts from the inside of the pipe towards the thread (Be careful not to cut the thread!) You then collapse the pipe towards the middle away from the thread and twist it out with the pliers.
Replacing a condensate pipe- Since it isn't a steam pipe I'd use copper as internally it stays much cleaner.
- Rod0 -
This may be a long shot
Make sure your wearing eye protection before trying this!
Try heating the elbow up til its really hot, almost glowing. Then wrap a soaking wet rag around the nipple your trying to remove, don't hit the elbow only the nipple. Hopefully the cold rag will make the pipe shrink away from the elbow enough to break the bond. Then get out the wrench and heave ho - using a second wrench to hold the elbow..
Other than that it might be time to break out the sawzall.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Thanks for the suggestions!
Rod,
I'm kind of doing the opposite here--replacing the piping and re-using any fittings that look okay. That galvanized nipple probably could have been usable because it was pretty high and dry, but it was too short, and I'm also trying to get rid of as much galvanized pipe as I can. I might try your trick with the reciprocating saw if I can't get it out any other way. As you can probably see from the picture it's already collapsing inwards just from the force of the pipe wrench jaws. If I make a few cuts I can probably cave it in with an air chisel.
Re. using copper, I've been told it can be used below the water line, but it's not a good idea in steam systems. For one thing, you shouldn't mix different metals because they cause galvanic reactions when the ions build up. (That's why I'm trying to get rid of all my galvanized stuff.) The other reason is that copper expands a lot more when its heated than steel. Besides, I hate sweating copper.
Bob,
I think I'll try your suggestion first. I was using a MAPP gas torch, but it might be time to break out the oxyacetylene and get serious. I had a spray bottle handy in case I had to put out a fire, but it somehow never occurred to me to use it to cool down the nipple.
Thanks!Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240
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