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Chiller Temp

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Techman
Techman Member Posts: 2,144
in A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
This is on an "everything is beautiful" , Geo water to water  system !. With 42-44* salt water on the load side.What should the r-22  P/T. be?  SuperHeat ?  SubCooling?

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  • JStar
    JStar Member Posts: 2,752
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    ...

    I've always charged by subcooling (at least 5 degrees) first to get close, while keeping an eye on superheat, which I feel should be around 10.  45 degree supply water with the equivalent pressure of 35 degrees on your gauge. Higher than 10 indicates an undercharge. Lower means overcharged.



    I've always been the only chiller guy at my company, so nobody has been around to give me any field advice. These are just the numbers I've seen to work.
  • Techman
    Techman Member Posts: 2,144
    edited July 2011
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    Chiller

    Do you find most heat exchangers are sized for a 10* TD, then? As compared to a 20* TD w/ a 28-25-22* freon temp and lower.Thanks.
  • JStar
    JStar Member Posts: 2,752
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    Yeah.

    Most water-side TD's are going to be around 10 degrees, but it depends on the manufacturer and the number of passes in the HX. 10 is generally a safe number to look for in any comfort cooling system.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
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    Agree.

    I usually shoot for 10*F, But not a rule.   Every system is different and assuming that the pipe sizing is correct, I am looking for my chilled water to handle the design flow.  When you go outside of recommended range, "Say too small or too large of pipe, your delta "T^" may not work the way the manual Say's.  It's all about flow of the medium/water or glycol.  Can you emagine having 4" pipe?  Yea you have your 10 diff, but the water volicity does not match your chiller. 

    B&G has a nice system sizer that gets you in the ball park abd is very useful for calculations, volicity noised etc.....  B&G.COM



    Mike T.
  • thomasc
    thomasc Member Posts: 4
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    chiller

    I have a plugged in a new cooling system for my refrigerator as the older one was not that effective anymore.  Now the issue is the control.  There are 2 separate knobs that control the freeze part and the regular cooling part. While the cooling part works flawlessly, I sometimes find the freeze part working out of proportion.  Usually, it cools to a certain point, goes to sleep and them powers back on. but recently, there has been some problems with the chiller working too much then going to sleep for long.
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