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wire mess

ChrisJ
ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
Is there something I am missing in this picture as far as why the wires are run the way they are.  I have no problem doing electrical work,  I simply don't want to change something that may have been done for a reason I don't know about.



I want to shorten all but the one going to the burner.  The long wire allows the door to swing open nicely.  Was also thinking of moving the switch to the main junction box rather than by it self on the side.



What really confuses me is for some reason the autofill cable goes all the way around the boiler rather then straight to the box.  The autofill is literally a foot from the box.  This wire makes it very difficult to clean the boiler.



All opinions welcome!

Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

Comments

  • Paul Fredricks_3
    Paul Fredricks_3 Member Posts: 1,557
    .

    Maybe whoever wired it charged by the foot. Other than that I see no issue with removing excess wire.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    Switch

    Thank you for the reply Paul.



    Would it be against code to move the switch from the side of the boiler to the main junction box?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
    It wouldn't be....

    But I bet that box is pretty full.  Unless you find a very deep box, the extenders look a little ugly.  I usually put a switch, and a receptacle (for a drop light). They make a coverplate for a single switch over the 2 gang box, but you should probably put a sticker that looks like the red burner switch cover plate.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,386
    If you're going to do all that

    it would be a good idea to replace that #67 low-water cutoff with a probe type. That's what I'd do. 
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    Probe

    While I like the idea I can't afford a probe cutoff at this time.  For future reference is there a make\model you would recommend steamhead?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,019
    Uncertain wiring

    Looks like uncertain wiring job to me .. Steam is wired in series with one extra branch to the feeder ... The electrician who wired was just unsure ..



    You can move the switch , but the service switch seems fine right where the line comes i .... Sure reroute the wiring that runs across the clean out door .. Raise the wire sitting on the front combustion plate .Heat and plastic coated wires = a short. The long wire to the burner should be replaced with a disconnect or plug . To open the combustion door the burner has to be disconnected this way ..To me the job has been wire by two people ... Half of it was clamped to the max ....The other half is all over the place like a 3pm Friday afternoon job..Just when ever you wire or rewire go though a complete test run down , twice ...

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,386
    Either

    Hydrolevel Safeguard or McDonnell & Miller PS-800 series will work fine.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 605
    I tell my partners

    all the time that the wiring is the easiest part of our installs and it can make or break how a job looks overall .



    No problem shortening the wires . The V8 comes packaged with a plug for the burner . Not sure if I see one on yours ? They make the wire just long enough so you have to disconnect it to open the swing door .



    Here's a pic of a V8 steamer we installed . Don't mind the copper header . Some rad pipes had copper going right to 'em . We installed this 5 or 6 years ago and the joints are still holding strong .
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    edited July 2011
    Absolutely

    Ron Jr, I can't agree more.



    I'm not a plumber or in the HVAC business but I assemble computers as well as board level electronics design and take great pride in my work.



    I was feeling spent this weekend and was just going to leave the boiler alone, but now that you were nice enough to post a picture of a V8 wired correctly I have to go buy some stuff to fix mine. Thanks bud :)





    On a side note, is that a V8 or a V8H series boiler and what is the difference between the two? The parts seem pretty much interchangeable.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 605
    Thanks Chris !

    I asked about the V8H designation once or twice on here and no one seems to know . I can tell you I see no difference between the 2 models except for the name change . We buy our boilers knockdown so we see the sections and all . I can send you a higher resolution pic in an email if you like . Good luck with the rewire !
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    Yes Virginia there is a siteglass in that mess!

    I spent some time and little money tonight and cleaned the wiring up a little.  I can live with it for now at least.  I still want to do something with the thermostat wiring and the fact the burner doesn't have the plug like it should annoys me.

    I also added a brass hookup for a 3 PSI gauge which is on the way as we speak. 



    Besides the messy wiring what really bothers me as I found several loose connections to screw terminals.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

This discussion has been closed.