What are my chances?

Jimbo_5

I have 2 old steam risers to cut-out and re-pipe.  The building was built in 1928, so I presume the piping is that old as well.  One is a 3-1/2" and the other a 2-1/2" line.  What are my chances of removing the cut-off nipples from the existing elbows?  Or, if necessary, what are my chances of cutting the nipple between the 2-1/2" valve and the elbow in order to remove it from the valve itself?  Suggestions? 



Understandably steam fittings and nipples hate to separate from each other.  Not to jump too far ahead, but I was thinking sawzall and chisel, if necessary..

Rod

Crack the Cast Iron Fittings

Hard to say. I think you would have better luck sawing the cast iron elbows slightly and then cracking them, See if you can then clean up the thread on the nipples and attach a new fitting.

- Rod

Jimbo_5

I'm Afraid You're Right

I was grasping for a few options.  But if I must resort to that, so be it.  With the smaller pipe, we were hoping to work our way back to the valve to start the new piping, yet we can re-pipe it another way.  (The shop's owner says "Just unscrew it and spin on another."  Like it was 1/2" copper.)

icesailor

Good Chances:

I'm impressed with that offset no-hub coupling. I want one if they are legal. I always hesitate doing something like that for fear that someone might take a picture of it and post it on The Wall" and the world can see and wonder. Who did that?

But to your question, if I was faced with that situation, I would be truly excited to have choices and that was one of them. I'd trot right out to my truck to get my trusty 4# hammer and give it a whack or two. On the one with the two ells, I'd probably go back to the valve figuring that it is a forged body and wouldn't crack so I'd crack the closest ell to the valve in case it is already cracked.

Of course, you could always cut the pipe out of the fitting. I use my Bosch saber/jig saw and Bosch makes these carbide tipped saw blades for cutting stainless steel. They are harder than the tar road and LAST. If that were a Tee and I had to get the pipe out, I'd do it that way.

Your options are open.

Mark Eatherton

The art of breaking fittings....

Other's may add to this where they see fit.



I've noticed a lot of recommendations in this and other threads about whacking cast iron fittings to remove them.



If you walk into the boiler room with your 5 pound sledge, and start swinging madly, you may end up creating more work for yourself than what it's really worth. The key is "controlled, focused energy".



To do it correctly may require more than one participants, both of who should be wearing full face protection and eye protection under that. Lets call participant A the Swinger, and participant B the Backer.



Have participant B hold his hammer on the exact opposite side that person A will be applying the blows. Have B hold the hammer firmly against the side of the FITTING, not the pipe.



With full safety protection in place, have A swing hard, and repetetively, hitting the cast iron fitting. As A is hammering, B will have to concentrate on keeping the back up hammer in place. As A is swinging, the fitting will start with a solid CLANG, and as he continues to hammer, the clang will sound more dull. This indicates that the fitting is fractured, and ready to part company.



Note: This methodology works on CAST IRON fitting only. If it is a malleable iron fitting, it will bend (the pipe and the fitting) and then you are screwed. So be certain that you are dealing with cast iron, and not malleable iron fittings.



Also, be aware that some times, these fittings explode, and there will be schrapnel flying everywhere. I almost put an associates eye out one time doing this procedure, and he wasn't even helping, just standing by watching in the doorway leading into the boiler room. Fortunately, he didn't lose his eye, but it was touch and go there for a short time....



Proceed with caution.



ME

Charlie from wmass

I use a 12 pound backer and an 8 pound wacker

Since I work alone most days I have found the grind a slot into the fitting and wedge with a thin chisel method much nicer.

Jimbo_5

Sorry, the No-Hub belonds to the plumber

He's been having a better time than we have, smaller piping to relocate . . .  and his CI is much thinner and breaks easier.