Main Water Cut-off Leads to Leaks from Radiator Vents

Alex_19

Hello.

I have been a lurker around here up until now and have learned a lot of good information. I am now a new member, and a self-admitted novice when it comes to difficult plumbing issues.



Please assist me with a recent issue. My family had to shut off the main water valve, but when we went to turn it back on, the valve failed leaving the water turned almost completely off. The valve will be fixed in a few days, but an unintended problem developed with the heating system.



This is an oil-fired steam boiler with an automatic water feeder and a LWCO. It has not been on a lot recently due to warmer weather. It is in the basement and feeds three radiators on the first level and three smaller radiators on the second level.



About 16 hours after the water was cut off, the lowest radiator developed a steady leak from the vent. About four hours into this, I removed the vent and temporarily plugged up the hole. Obviously, the vent will have to be replaced before the radiator is next heated up. This stopped the leak. Three hours later, the two other radiators developed leaks.



At this point, I decided to cut electric power to the boiler, and to my surprise, this has significantly reduced the problem.



My question is, once the water is turned back on, how and when can the boiler be safely turned back on? Should I add water to the boiler or take any other steps? Please let me know if you need additional information. Thank you so much for any advice.

gerry gill

sounds like your system is flooded.

Try draining down the system and see if its flooded..don't let the fire turn on while draining the boiler..i say that cause i don't know if your low water cutoff works..the water supposed to be visible in the glass..is yours? was this leaking taking place when the boiler was off too? its hard to deduce from what you wrote, but it sounds like it may be flooded..

Alex_19

Latest

I noticed some leaking at an upstairs radiator about a half-hour ago. So I went down to the basement and let a little water out at the Hartford loop. Just a little.



I went back to the first floor, and the lowest radiator spewed a geyser from where that temporary plug was I mentioned. I caught a lot of that brownish water and tossed it. Now it's a slow drool.



The boiler was not running at all when the leaking started or since (which has been about 18 hours) I don't believe the boiler is flooded. Everything was fine until the water main was turned off. There was no leaking at all.



Is there anything I can expect when the water main is turned back on later today?

Jean-David Beyer

Is there anything I can expect when the water main is turned back on later today?

I am not a professional.



But if it were my system, I would make an appointment with a professional to be there when the main water is turned back on. And tell him why before he comes. Expect to pay him for his time even if he needs to do nothing. Consider it insurance.

Rod

Leak

Hi- Like others have mentioned, it sounds as though your boiler is flooded.  Can you see the water level in the glass sight tube on the front of the boiler?  It should be approximately half way up the glass tube when the boiler isn't operating. I would get a professional out there right away as further flooding could cause damage to your floors etc.

- Rod

Alex_19

Flooded Could Be It

Hey Guys, thanks for the suggestions so far. I've just removed some water from the boiler (the last time was behind at the Hartford Loop) and the first water ran dark, then two small bucket-fulls ran a lot clearer. This has stopped the constant drooling from the lowest radiator.



Looking at the sight tube, it is definitely not at half, but I cannot tell if it is empty or full.

STEAM DOCTOR

crud

Some crud may have worked it's way into the automatic water feeder and is keeping the feeder open. Since you are getting a little water through your main water shutoff that water might be going through the main water pipe, into the feeder, into the boiler and out your radiators. Whenever you close the main water shutoff you are liable to loosen crud in the water pipes. Try shutting the valve to the auto water feeder. Also try opening faucets to redirect some of the water. PLEASE GET A PRO. IF MY THEORY IS CORRECT WHEN THEY FIX THE MAIN VALVE YOU MAY HAVE A MAJOR FLOOD.

STEAM DOCTOR

KEEP DRAINING

If my theory is correct the water flow from the drain might not stop.

Alex_19

Flow from Drain?

Hey bn, could you please explain that a little more?



The water main valve (which failed) should be fixed this afternoon. But I don't have to use the boiler today or even turn the electric back on right away.

Alex_19

Re: crud

bn, I just saw your earlier post about the crud. These are the steps I have taken so far:



I have shut off the valve to the automatic water feeder.

I have drained ten buckets of water from the boiler.

I have turned the faucets on the kitchen and bathroom sinks on all the way.



During the last 25 minutes, there has been no additional water coming out of any radiators.

Alex_19

Sight Tube Now Below ½

After about thirty full buckets, the water level is now below half. I guess the boiler was flooded.



Thank you so much for your assistance so far! Is there anything else I should do at this point?

Rod

Flooded Boiler

Okay, good! You have done the right things in shutting off the valve to the automatic water feeder and in draining down the boiler. You bwill need to fill the boiler back to the proper water level in the glass tube before you operate the system.

There are only a couple of possibilities as to why the boiler is flooding. They are:

1. The automatic waterfeeder has a stuck valve. Some crud/rust may have been knocked loose by the main valve problem and this is obstructing the complete closing of the valve in the automatic water feeder. While you can rebuild this yourself it maybe a good idea to have a pro do it for you and at the same time check over your system.

2. The second possibility can occur if you have a coil in the boiler to heat domestic Hot Water. This coil can spring a pin hole leak and flood the boiler. If after shutting off the valve to the automatic water feeder observe the height of the water in the glass sight tube on the boiler. If it is still flooding AND You Have  a domestic water coil this is an indication the coil is leaking inside the boiler. The coil can be replaced though this is best left to a professional.

If you don't have a copy already , you might want to get a book called "We Got Steam Heat!"  It's easy, humorous reading, written for the homeowner new to steam heating and in a couple of evenings of reading will put you light years ahead in your knowledge of residential steam systems and how they work. Here's a link to the book:

http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Books/5/61/We-Got-Steam-Heat-A-Homeowners-Guide-to-Peaceful-Coexistence

- Rod

Jean-David Beyer

While you can rebuild this yourself ...

I do not happen to know what a fill valve costs, but does it make sense for a contractor to rebuild one?



I have rebuilt a pressure-temperature 2-stage mixing valve for my darkroom and it is interesting work. The rebuild kit costs about half the price of a new one. But if I had a skilled technician doing it with the billing meter running, it just might be cheaper to put a whole new valve in there. It took me a couple of hours. The biggest time consumer was the accumulation of mineral deposits that made it difficult to remove the pieces.



I just looked up prices for fill valves. If it took my contractor much over 20 minutes to rebuild it, and he got the rebuild kit for free, it would be cheaper for him to put a new one in.

STEAM DOCTOR

confirmation

I would recommend shutting faucets and opening the valve to the automatic water feed. CAREFULLY  watch water level in glass over period of time. If level goes up then you have identified the problem. Make sure that water level is half way up glass before you start. Also make sure that boiler has been off for an hour before you start.

Steamhead

What they said

and it really isn't worth rebuilding a feed valve. If you have a McDonnell & Miller #47-2, the one that's about the size of a volleyball, the valve block assembly should be replaced. If you have an electrically-operated feeder, replace the complete unit. Our favorite is the Hydrolevel VXT, since it has a built-in counter that will track water usage.



Whichever way you go, have a pro handle it. This is not a DIY project.

Alex_19

Everything Working Okay Again

I really appreciate and thank you guys for pointing me in the right direction on Thursday. The Water Main valve was replaced, and everything went fine with turning the water back on. Later that night, I restored power to the boiler and made sure the water level was normal. The furnace started up and ran normal, except for some minor scratching in a direct line out of the boiler to the second level. But everything heated up nicely the few times it has been used since the disruption.



When I turned the water back on to the automatic feeder (which is a Hydrolevel VXT), I only opened the valve just enough so I could manually feed water in. I'm guessing it can also automatically get water if necessary. Should I open the valve all the way, or leave it as is? I'm checking the sight tube every day to make sure the level stays near normal.

Steamhead

It's probably best

to not open it all the way for now. Checking it every day is a good idea.