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biasi b-10 3 and indirect ?

polcat1p
polcat1p Member Posts: 28
might be buying a biasi b-10-3   58000 btu boiler(house needs 40000 btus) .

most indirect heater are 100000 btus input. will the boiler to small? what odr does everyone recommend?  also should i pipe primary secondary? i have 3 heating zones now+ will be adding another one for an indirect.  i have a old 120000 btu utica boiler with tankless piped into a electric whater heater for storage, thats not to efficient.

thanks

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,342
    That should work fine

    I like the Triangle Tube Smart series indirects.



    Whit kind of radiation do you have?
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  • polcat1p
    polcat1p Member Posts: 28
    fin

    i have reg. suntemp alum. fin
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,342
    Pri-sec

    is nice but shouldn't be absolutely necessary in this type of system.



    Any good ODR that will override reset on a DHW call will work fine. Make sure the sensors are installed properly.



    Not sure if you're a pro- if not, you should have a pro install this system. Among other things, they might not honor the warranty if a pro didn't install it.
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  • polcat1p
    polcat1p Member Posts: 28
    new yorker triple pass boiler

    my local supply house is having a special on 3 pass ci. newyorker boilers with matching boilermate and outdoor reset for a good price. has anyone had good or bad luck with this setup?

    thanks
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,342
    That three-pass New Yorker

    looks a lot like a Burnham MPO. They are probably similar since both companies are owned by US Boiler Co.



    The MPO is a fine boiler, so this one should be good too.
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  • Greg Maxwell
    Greg Maxwell Member Posts: 212
    biasi b10/3

    We are a Biasi distributor, and have been for a long time. They are an awesome boiler. What is you domestic water demand? With a 40,000btu load, you should be fine with that boiler. I like to add 20% of the heating load as a rule of thumb for domestic water. A 40 gallon indirect should be fine on that job. You could prioritize the DHW, but I wouldnt unless you find that you have to. My recommendation for an outdoor reset at this time would be the new H/W AQ251 boiler control. It comes with the outdoor sensor, does 4 baseboad, and 1 DHW zones. It does require a little reading to get the wiring down, but once you've wired a couple, you'll be fine.
  • Robert O'Brien
    Robert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,451
    Greg

    "I like to add 20% of the heating load as a rule of thumb for domestic water"



    How do you know the DHW load and why would you "add" anything for it? What's input of the 40 gallon gas water heater that the vast majority of American homes use? Approx 40K,
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  • polcat1p
    polcat1p Member Posts: 28
    zone valves

    i think  going to go with the biasi. my problem is i have 3 heat zones with zone valves, and if i do p/s piping i will have to buy all new circs, with webstone isos. witch will add $400 to the piping plus copper and fittings. is there anyway to keep the zonevales and pipe a bypass> just dont want any condensation.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,216
    Robert I was once a drinker of that

    20% Kool Aid. It took a few installs before I trusted my numbers enough to not keep bumping up the boiler size or the indirect size. It makes installations even more dramatic for people with properly sized equipment going in. Wholesalers and manufacturer reps still cover their posteriors by up sizing for the domestic load. After all they do not pay the fuel bill.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

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  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,342
    Actually you wouldn't need to buy circs

    just tie the existing two lines from the existing boiler to where the zones split off, into the primary loop with closely spaced tees that will handle the combined load.
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  • polcat1p
    polcat1p Member Posts: 28
    piping

    what i have now is a 1-1/4 supply header that go up then, spirovent. after that i have a circ and 3- 1-1/4x3/4 tees.  the return is the same but has the zonevalve on it. Are you saying to combine all the zones together off the primary with 1 circ?
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,342
    edited May 2011
    Right

    it'll simplify the piping (less to take apart and put back together), and all three zones will get water at the same temperature. 
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  • polcat1p
    polcat1p Member Posts: 28
    got it

    so  i will need 3 total circ? 1 primary,1 sec. for 3 zonevales, and one for dhw.

    will the aq251 handle all of that or do i need a zone controll also?

    thanks for the help.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,342
    You'd use

    the existing control circuits to operate the ZVs, which would then call the AQ panel to start the zone circ. I think this is the AQ you want, since it also does domestic:



    http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/AQ25142B
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