Dual 3/4" inreturn purge and drain to 1"

RCK

Looking to replace old (circa 1956) setup return Purge and drain.

Looks like a slim flat box with both base board (front and rear of home) returns from the same zone.

 This brass or copper box has 2 each 3/4 " in lets that can be stoppped individually by closing it's shut off valve. Also the two 3/4" are merged to a 1" return which also can be closed. This functions to purge and drain each side of the home individually.

Made by Quality Camden NJ. I think the Part number is 120.

Figure it was installed in 1956 and now has rusted pepcocks/valves.

Is this still manufactured or anyone have one laying on there work bench that works?

Can it be moditifed some how to function again?

Any Ideas? 

Thanks RCK

billtwocase

can you

post a pic of this? I think I saw one years ago. Probably best to install ball valves and purge "T"s to purge and balance

billtwocase

can you

post a pic? I remember seeing what you describe years ago. It would be best to replace something like that with ball valves, purge "T"s, and fittings. Use the ball valves to balance

Charlie from wmass

Webstone has these.

You would need to add a 1 x 3/4 x 3/4 tee and a street 90 but they are as close as I can find.



http://www.webstonevalves.com/Default.aspx?page=category%20search%20results&CatList=167&Parent=58&tree=0*Radiator+Valves*0@@58*Balancing+Valves*167@@

RCK

Dual Purge Drain Circa 1956 Picture Attached

I realize I'll be using 3 ball valves and a drain if something like this is not made today. Just thought   m a y b e   a similar product could be on the market today.

Thanks RCK

EddieG

You

You could just use two of the Webstone 3/4 versions (as Charlie posted) and then tie them together to the 1" return. Or use the 2 ball valves followed by the 1" purge valve. A matter of personal preference and if you want to switch the hose while bleeding. I don't think you are going to find anything like you currently have.

RCK

Thanks for the Advice and Ideas.

I'll be getting two off the purge valves mentioned by you and Chuck. Just gotta wait for this winter to finally end for a heater shut down to replace some weeping copper pipes and fittings.



Thanks again RCK

icesailor

Purging:

There was a time in the past where I used those purge valves you want to use. I found that they let water from other zones leak by and they didn't shut off positively.

I always install a ball valve on the return at the boiler and a boiler drain above it. I put ball valves on the return so I can close either one. Competitive copper ball valves are cheap and if you use a 1"X1"X1/2" copper tee and a 1/2" copper fitting (street) X FPT adapter, you will save considerably, over a cast bronze adapter tee.

But I need to ask, what is wrong with the fitting there? Do the blocking ports still work? Why do you deed to purge the system? Do you do it often?

I can think of systems that I installed and have been in operation for over 30 years and have never been drained or purged. I fill and purge once and be done with it. 

RCK

Reason for shut down/repair of a zone

There are fittings where soder decayed/broke down and slightly weep (over50 years old). The Return prurge valves are rusted/frozen and may be resrticted or clogged.

Since I'll be draining this zone to replace tube and fittings I may as well inspect the return purge(see previous picture post) for clogging. I'll probably end up removing the return balance/ purge.

I do have two balancing ball valves fpr each line after zone split near heater but think replacing the return purge would be handy since it is part of the original configuration of this Zone.

Again, the reason for the project is old soder weeping steam/moisture and over time some how air gets in line. Also some day weak links will burst.

Thanks for your concern RCK



Thanks RCK