rad too high

njjoe

<ol><li>My son has a steam radiator that sits on a pair of 2x4's. It seems the supply pipe (one pipe system) was cut and threaded too high. What is the best way to correct this so that the rad can stand on the floor without the blocks?</li></ol>

Charlie from wmass

The pipe

needs to be removed and cut shorter. This is most likely going to mean breaking out the elbow below the floor and removing the riser and valve from above. It then needs to be accurately cut and threaded and put into the new cast iron elbow you will be replacing the one you broke out. Can you get to the pipe below the floor?

njjoe

thanks for replying

Not so easy to access the riser, that would involve breaking some plaster and my son's wife is not too keen on that. I thought I could thread the pipe more and then cut it, but the thought of cross threading  occurred and if I did not cut it exactly square the whole idea would be for nothing

Brad White

It would not be the first time

but if the riser is straight (I take it that this is a second floor radiator), you could do the lowering in the basement where you have better access (or greater tolerance to make a small mess). 



In other words, cut the riser base and lower it down all at once. You can shorten a string from either end, after all.



No matter what you do, you may be cutting and threading in place, but plan carefully to keep that at a minimum. Do not change the pitch while you are at this. I hope this is clear and makes sense.

Charlie from wmass

You maybe able to find

an older radiator that has longer legs. trying in the basement may work but proceed with caution or your Daughter in law will be much more upset then she could be about a hole in the ceiling.

njjoe

basement

Never thought of working on this at the basement level (yes, 2nd floor radiator) but does the riser go straight up without any kind of clamp along the way? In any case, going to wait until the hearing season is over

Brad White

Most

risers that I have seen (not that I have seen all nor as many as most installers on this board, but I have seen a fair number), are not supported for one or two stories.  Any clamping or binding would not benefit the self-supporting nature.



Everything has exceptions, but given the rigidity of iron pipe and the old-timer's appreciation for pipe expansion, I would be willing to bet that the pipe risers were allowed to "float". Any clamping would hinder the expansion process and require other means to absorb the movement.



That is my $0.02 anyway!

Brad White

That reminds me

you may be able to find salvaged or even newly manufactured iron "stacking cups" (I call them). These cones of iron (not to be confused with "Buns of Steel"), have top recesses to fit the leg support points and spread them out over a wider base. They raise the radiators in 1-inch or 1.5 inch increments, the few that I have seen.



An old-time plumbing supply house may have these or check on-line.

BobC

A fly in the ointment

The one problem with shortening the pipe in the basement is you don't know how much play there is upstairs. The pipe going through the first floor walls often takes a short 6-8" (?) jog to clear the wall and emerge from the floor a few inches from the wall. You have to know how much play you have there or you might find you don't have enough lay to lower that pipe 1-1/2" to get rid of those 2X4 risers.



Might be easier to find a couple of pieces of wood that you can stain and varnish to match the floor, sometimes the simple way is the best way.



good luck,



Bob

Brad White

Super Fly in the Ointment

You bring up a very good point Bob.  I should have elaborated to check the pipe movement first by disconnecting the radiator and pushing or pulling to see if the riser moves freely. You are entirely correct, one hard turn against a joist and there is little one can do.



On the other hand, I have disconnected radiators (for other reasons, not shortening the riser), and the riser dropped a few inches with a thump! That would be a satisfying condition to have here.



But the point remains, test the movement first.  Thanks for pointing that out!