My Sewer Line

Bebes

I'm back again, with something new.

I need to replace part of my sewer line outside. I have ceramic pipe, and want to replace part of it with Sched 40 4" PVC. I'm almost ready to cut the old pipe, so decided to see how the Fernco's fit on my PVC. I can't quite get it on....do I maybe have a Fernco for Sched 20, or is it supposed to be this way. If so, is there a trick to getting it around the pipe....it's close, so I'm thinking there is. Do I need to put purple primer on the PVC....doesn't seem like I should, but.

Thanks for whatever help you can give me.

icesailor

Sewer Pipe

Fernco makes a coupling to fit clay pipe. VC Vitrified Clay pipe outside is usually 5" inside. If it is close to fitting 4" PVC, it is less than 4" inside. Therefore, it is most likely 5" outside.

Bebes

Hmm.

I haven't checked to see if the Fernco fits the clay pipe yet. I'm trying to get the Fernco to go on the PVC. My neighbor, it turns out, has a piece of 4" that must be Sched 20, cuz it's thinner, and the no hub fits on that fine.

My questions are: 1) is there a different Fernco for sched 20 and sched 40 2) is there a way to get a tight Fernco onto a pipe 3) do I need any purple primer 4) does anyone know if Summit, NJ will accept sched 20 5) what do you think of cementing the joints once it's in place....I have movement from the ground around my house 6)is there a trick to getting the old piece out at the joint (I know I have to cut one end, and can do that, but I thought I'd try both ways of removing the old pipe.

That ought to about do it for now 

RobbieDo

Sch 40 PVC

We install Sch40 PVC in the ground for sewer where I live. We have to install sewer pipe, PVC here is used for above ground. You said you live in NJ? Might want to check the code first.

Bebes

Robbie

OK, that sounds like a good idea. Thanks.

icesailor

Sch/20 PVC

I refer to Sch 20 pipe as "Tissue Paper Pipe". In MA, we are required to run Sch 40 4" PVC pipe, 10' outside the foundation. The excavation contractors would run sch.20 to the street or the septic system. The pipe would crush. It ends up being replaced.

If the reason you are trying to repair the pipe is because there was an obstruction and you had to dig it up, I would turn the repair into a place where you can then access the pipe and put some sort of cover on it like an irrigation box so if the sewer backs up, it does it in the yard and not in the house.

If you don't know about all the ways to fix this problem, you need a pro.

jonny88

sewer line

what size is your sewer line outside.if it is 5 inch you might get a cp55 on the pipe.fernco couplings dont give great support and tend to sag which in turn could lead to problems further down the line.you could also try and see if a piece of 4" no hub will fit inside your sewer line.if so slide a 4ft piece in and cement around the joint.fron there house trap etc.or as icesailor said call a plumber

Bebes

I'm likin' that idea, cuz

In response to ice - it turns out there used to be a clean out....which consisted of a Y with a short leg attached....and a rock for a cap! I'd had an obstruction, which I unplugged from the inside, but then I decided I didn't want to keep going thru that, so I dug it up outside. I was all ready to replace the pipes(there's a few shorter pieces), but now I've noticed that the two pipes I want to connect are not in line. Oh boy. As for getting some help, I just don't have the money for that. So, is there a simple way to allow for a backup to hit the yard, instead of my house. If not, is there a trick to getting the no hubs to work on pipes that aren't in line. I guess I need to go out and figure out how out of line they are. I'm definitely going with the Sched 40, just to be clear.

clammy

nj and ferncos

In nj as far as i know ferncos are not legal espially for buried pipe .You should be using a no hub which is approved .Also schledge 20 pipe is not rated nor is used for sewer lines ,20 is for light drainage like gutter ,landscape and foundation drainage i personally would never use it nor any lic plumbers that i know .As for connecting to a existing clay sewer pipe i really don't know usually when i ran into that it's getting replaced to the main.I know that in new jersey that united water used to and still might offer insurane for replacing old lead water mains and clay sewer lines but you would have to contact them to find out for sure .I would not be surprised if they drop it cause i know ina certain area they tooka big beating and the other issue was that no lic plumbers wanted to do them being they where paying like less then dirt for the job and after all was said and done most plumber barely made enough to pay for the back hoe and operater.my thinking is that unless you work as a plumber or pipe fitter this is not a DIY type of job being that clay sewer main is at least 50 to 60 years old and if she starts cracking you will be digging up even more .I have seen guys go to the clay hub and gently pull out old pipe stick in the pvc lightly jam in some oakum and then motar it up with what i call a termite mound and all it done .To each there own good luck clammy

Bebes

I went and checked

Jonny, I have a 4" clay sewer line...and a question. Is there a difference between a Fernco and a no hub...I thought they were the same thing. What I have is...an MR02-44 4" clay to 4" CL/PL. I'll ask you the same question I asked ice...can I get the  pieces I have to adapt to the fact that my pipes aren't in line. I just went out and checked how off it is, and found that the pipe goes off 1" after 4 inches. I'm guessing I can't put the piece inside, since they're both 4" pipes. I have a fair degree of experience doing my own plumbing, and think of it as fun to try and figure things out....plus no dough, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

icesailor

Third World Sewer Repair:

What Clammy says is true. You can't do it.

What I would do is this. Get an irrigation valve control box, the square type. They make them for underground wire splices also. They have a green cover to match the lawn. Here's where you get to play mason or bricklayer. Dig out under the two pipes and find a way to run a temporary pipe connection between the two ends. Split a piece of pipe to do this. You could use a piece of the good corrugated aluminum dryer vent also. You need to make a curve to get the water to flow smoothly. Get out the wheelbarrow and some Sakrete cement. If the pipe is close enough to the top of the ground, you may need to notch the box. But you need to fill under the pipes with concrete/sakrette. Fill it half way up the pipe with the dryer vent in place. After a few hours, when the concrete is stiff enough, remove the vent and smooth the form nicely to make the water happy on its journey to the street. Brick up from the foundation to where the irrigation box will sit if needed. You must be careful and make this flush with the ground, If it is up too high, you will wreck it with a lawn mower. Cement it in place. Put on the cover and back fill. Plant grass.

Next time you have a sewer issue, you do not need to dig up the sewer. Lift the cover and take a peek. You can snake in either direction. If the sewer in the house isn't working, and it isn't coming up on the lawn, it's between the house and the box. If it is all over the lawn, it is between the box and the street. You will never need to remove a cover in a cellar with a trash barrel under it to collect the juice.

Careful thought and planning will make this a nice installation and you will be the envy of all the DIY'ers in the neighborhood. And if Dig Safe comes looking for utilities, they will never look in there. They will think it an irrigation valve box. Unless you use an electrical one. Then, the power company will be looking in there. What a surprise.

I have done this for years, I just HATE digging up something twice for the same problem.

Bebes

Can I ask

which part of it seems undoable.

icesailor

Ask:

No part for me. I don't know you.

I tried to explain it as best I could.

I have a friend who can do anything. He rebuilt his 22' Crosby 1908 wooden cat boat. When he was done, it was almost perfect. So, he did it again. He replaced all the oak frames in the boat without removing the planking. He used a third world method of removing the oak frames. He would remove three. The ones on either side were close enough to the middle one in shape. He took a sheet of plywood and put blocks in the shape of the second frame. He took green white oak and steamed the wood in his third world rib steamer. A piece of 4" PVC pipe with a hose connected to the spout of a tea kettle on an electric hot plate, After some period when the piece was wet and pliable, he took it out and placed it in the shape jig. When cool, he placed the frame in place and went on to the next one. A lot of stories in Wooden Boat magazine show ripping strips and laminating them with epoxy.

His favorite expression is "Any Fool Can Do It". I remember that every time I run into something I think I can't do.

Just do it. It may not be as good as I could do it. It may be better, It doesn't matter. As long as you try. Just do it.