Beckett afg flames out

bruce_21

after burning fine for 15 sec when the control (honeywell 7184) cuts off the power to the ignitor. The unit has run fine for the whole season. There was some flooding in the basement but not enough to submerge the burner. Now it won't stay lit. Tried a new nozzle same results. The honeywell primary has a blue wire for the ignitor which I have nutted off and connected the ignitor to the orange lead along with the motor black. It is running now. What gives? What do I check next?

icesailor

Flame Out:

You need to replace the control. If it ran on trial fire before and it stopped running without ignition, the control is bad.

I don't use that control. The only ones I see are ones installed by others. II recently had one that was running "normally". I cleaned it and tuned it up. It had never been combustion tested. After I was finished, I found it was going off. Further investigation revealed that the control was bad and that the control would recycle when "seeing" 500 Ohms of resistance. You may have a similar problem and if the ignition drops out after 15 seconds, the color of the flame may change and the control locks out. Its a PITA to check the FF terminals because they are under the control. You have to remove the control to measure the resistance.

billtwocase

I would say that it is a flame quality /ohms issue

and the control is doing what it is supposed to, and is not bad. When the ignition drops out, your flame is unstable, and the control is telling you that by locking out. All you have done is made it constant ignition, and made it more stable. Have the burner checked out

bruce_21

Isn't the control supposed to be intermittent ?

and shouldn't the flame continue once it's started? It seems like it is not the control since I've got it bypassed by connecting the ignitor to the motor lead.

billtwocase

Bruce

there is an interupted ignition feature on that control, the blue wire with the white stripe. It will also run intermittent/constant ignition by powering the transformer/ignitor off of the orange wire, just will use a little more electric to run, and if it has an electronic ignitor, kiss it good-bye sooner, and you are only using a band-aid for a burner problem. It should run interupted ignition, if all is as it should be

icesailor

Flame/Ohms:

I told you guys, I just had a problem with that control. It ran for some long period of time as it was supposed to. I cleaned the boiler and adjusted it for improvements. It then started cycling. It would start, run for a minute or so and stop. I was busy cleaning up. I finally looked at the temperature gauge and it was cycling at 135 degrees. I noticed the green light flashing. I changed it to a 602000. Before I did though, I checked the eye and Ohms. You know it is a PITA because the terminals are under the control. It was showing 539 ohms when running. It's supposed to drop out at 1600 or above. The flame that gave 70% efficiency was not as bright as a flame that gave 81%. The brighter flame maybe gave 450 Ohms. The control would run on that. It wouldn't run on 539. The control was bad. It really upset me because I almost left an empty house with no one checking it with heat that was going off.

With Carlins and 602000's, they are usually louder when they start and run in trial fire. When the spark drops out, they get quieter. I've seen the ohm reading change on the transition. If the flame reading doesn't change because the ignition is constant, perhaps the control has the same problem I had. I have tried all kinds of ways to check the controls with resistors but I haven't figured it out yet.

AMH112181

chamber

Check to see is the target wall fell in.  Thats what I found the last time the flame dropped off with the ignitor.  It will run fine the way you have it wired dosen't mean its ok.