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some savings to report...
jpf321
Member Posts: 1,568
Since the install of my fuel gauge on 11/12/2010 I have burned through 802 gallons (including DHW use). Based on local daily HDD data, we have had 3248 HDD since 11/12/2010. Bringing my consumption to 0.246gal/HDD.
Having reviewed the data I had collected last year, my average consumption was 0.313gal/HDD .. using the same HDD (3248) I would have consumed 1006gal.
Therefore, I have saved myself 200gals ($700) either through steam system efficiencies (TRVs,Vents,Rads,etc), new boiler/burner install, boiler/main piping insulation, blown in-wall cellulose in several rooms, constant vs. set-back T-stat, etc.
At this rate, my efforts thus far will pay for themselves in about 5-7yrs (based on current oil prices). My intention is to blow a few more rooms with cellulose, and properly insulate the attic space with cellulose as well.
My problem room (too chilly - normally by 2degF) is still the kitchen and I have to consider replacing/tightening up the window and the exterior door, blowing cellulose, adding maybe some underfloor (basement) insulation as well. (Or move the T-stat to kitchen and move some TRVs around .. I know that T-stat in the kitchen could be a mistake due to cooking.)
Having reviewed the data I had collected last year, my average consumption was 0.313gal/HDD .. using the same HDD (3248) I would have consumed 1006gal.
Therefore, I have saved myself 200gals ($700) either through steam system efficiencies (TRVs,Vents,Rads,etc), new boiler/burner install, boiler/main piping insulation, blown in-wall cellulose in several rooms, constant vs. set-back T-stat, etc.
At this rate, my efforts thus far will pay for themselves in about 5-7yrs (based on current oil prices). My intention is to blow a few more rooms with cellulose, and properly insulate the attic space with cellulose as well.
My problem room (too chilly - normally by 2degF) is still the kitchen and I have to consider replacing/tightening up the window and the exterior door, blowing cellulose, adding maybe some underfloor (basement) insulation as well. (Or move the T-stat to kitchen and move some TRVs around .. I know that T-stat in the kitchen could be a mistake due to cooking.)
1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
0
Comments
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Congratulations JP!
A fantastic job! If I were you, I would definitely continue with the cellulose, especially in the attic where it will provide the most savings.Dave in Quad Cities, America
Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
http://grandviewdavenport.com0 -
1st Floor Insulation
Glad to hear that all your efforts made a big difference. My basement walls are rock and insulating between the overhead joists was a noticeable improvement.
- Rod0 -
Excellent!
and I'll bet you were just as comfortable, if not more so.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
well....
in terms of comfort .. the burn time to come up to satisfy the t-stat is longer on the properly sized slant/fin .. the fitzy that was 2x oversized would fill the rads much more quickly (20-30mins) vs. the slantfin which fills the rads in 40-50mins. therefore i spent a longer time at the lower end of my 1degF swing on the t-stat. perhaps this could be corrected with a fancy intelligent t-stat.
additionally, because I wrapped up the mains and header pretty tight i didn't have that "radiant" heat through to the 1st floor .. but on the other hand the heat got to where it needed to go (the rads) more efficiently.
i noticed today that I have the DHW aquastat set at 150dF so I could probably come down on that.
by far the best improvements I could make right now is increased cellulose insulation so that the house doesn't swing downward so quickly when the fire goes off.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Two steps forward...
After similar projects and savings, I too "miss" my overyheated basement for the subtle yet expensive radiant floor heat effect on the first floor. Next step for us? Insulating the basement ceiling.
If you're looking to speed up distribution times, perhaps a Paul retrofit is in order. Says the guy who's thinking about himself and wishes more people were so he could question them about their approach...
Good luck,
Patrick0
This discussion has been closed.
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