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Any Tips on unscrewing/loosening an old pigtail?

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JamesC in Stamford CT
JamesC in Stamford CT Member Posts: 95
in Strictly Steam
Hello, I tried last night to remove the pigtail to replace it and add a new 3 psi guage next to my pressuretrol. I even had drained the water out of the boiler low enough so it wold not drip all over the place one I got the pigtail off (not a bad thing to have done, I removed lots of sediment from the bottom of the boiler, the mud leg, etc).



But then I could not get it unstuck. I was afraid of applying too much pressure since I thought I might just break it and then not be able to remove it. I could not unscrew the pressuretrol from the pigtail -- it wold not budge. Nor could I unscrew the pigtail from the low-water cutoff device that it's screwed into.



Any tips on how to remove it without making such a mess of it? (see pigtail pic below)

Comments

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,785
    edited March 2011
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    Brass

    I am surprised , it looks like a brass pig tail ? Use two wrenches to remove pig tail and counter torque and then it out with compressed air if your afraid of breaking in the tap of the number 67 LWCO , .. 3# gauge may be too low for the P404 pressuretrol ... If it climbs higher the gauge is shot unless it is a retard type ... Still keep the 15# model for safety ..



    Also mud or they are called solids indicates steam leak and adding water... Take care of them $$$

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,478
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    It will take considerable force

    It looks like there was some kind of thread sealant used on the installation so that pigtail should be removable. It will take considerable force to get that started. You might try some KROIL or PB Blaster penetrating oil on that joint for a couple of days before going at it again.



    I've used jorgensen wooden clamps on those with great success, the large clamp gives you a lot of leverage and you can apply force gradually so the chance of snapping anything off is reduced.



    We're at the beginning of March now, if the amount of force required makes yo nervous, wait til spring when yo won't need heat - just in case.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
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    When I am working on something I shouldn't be

     I usually get started first thing in the morning.  That way, if I break something, I only have to pay daytime rates to clean up my mess.  One time, I even made a tenative appointment, with our plumber, when I thought for sure, something would go wrong.  So far, I have been getting lucky, maybe you will too.  With that said here we go.

    1-shut off the power to the boiler

    2-disconnect the wires inside the pressuretrol, remove the wire armor from the pressuretrol.

    3-grab the pigtail, as close as possible to the pressuretrol nut, with a pipe wrench.

    4-grab the pressuretrol nut with a big, good quality, crescent wrench, I used a 15"

    5-Hold, not turn, the pipe wrench

    6-Using the crescent wrench, loosen the pressuretrol nut from the pigtail.

    Hope I didn't forget anything.  Maybe you should call a plumber.
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,398
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    How well

    do you know the pig?



    :)
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Dave in QCA
    Dave in QCA Member Posts: 1,785
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    LOL

    I took me a bit... but I'm smiling now!
    Dave in Quad Cities, America
    Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
    System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
    Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
    http://grandviewdavenport.com
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
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    LOL

    Brad , You're bad! :)
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
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    The first time

    I had to chew off my arm so I wouldn't wake er up.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,322
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    Lets look at the basics

    what type of tools are you using? I would use a set of 10" or 8" pipe wrenches. Make sure to use them in pairs. Try tightening the joints first just enough to get the fitting to budge and then loosen the fittings. Righty tighty lefty loosey. 
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • JamesC in Stamford CT
    JamesC in Stamford CT Member Posts: 95
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    success!

    Thanks to everyone for helping me figure this out. I got to know the pig very well and everything worked out just fine. I found that the vise-grips worked well since they are slightly rounded, so the contour matched the roundness of the tubing better than most wrenches -- that meant more surface area connected with the tubing to prevent crimping. Attached are some pics as I took apart the old pigtail and then the final product.



    You will see that I put a ball valve to the new 3 psi gauge. I did this so I could shut off the supply to the gauge if things went above 3 psi to protect the gauge from being overpressurized (Hen's idea, I think?). I had been concerned of possible overpressurizing, because my boiler never cycles off except from the thermostat -- so I was thinking that maybe the pressuretol was not functioning and that things were getting overpressurized. But, putting on the gauge led me to understand the opposite was happening -- in fact the boiler never, ever gets to even 1 psi. That will probably be the subject of another post about pitch and insulation.



    In the mean time, this post is simply to say thanks, I was able to put all together this piping, can monitor the pressure, and no leaks! Thanks.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,322
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    Glad you are up and running

    Insulation may help get some pressure built as it will slow condensation rates.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,322
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    I like the pigtail you got

    They are a bit different from your old one that is the style I see. Is it foreign made.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,398
    edited April 2011
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    360 degree pigtails

    Well, that is what they call them. I see those in McMaster Carr and other sources. I think they look nicer than the 90 and 180 pigtails.



    Foreign made? I would bet.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • JamesC in Stamford CT
    JamesC in Stamford CT Member Posts: 95
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    foreign or domestic?

    The pigtail I got was online from McMaster -- I could not tell from the website nor could I tell when it arrived whether it was foreign made. I wanted a different style than the one I had since the old one was very short and closer to the water line, and I wanted to be sure the pressurtrol and gauge never got wet. So this was the tallest I could get, it is listed as:



    Style "C" NPT Male x NPT Male 7-1/2" Red Brass 4031K67 14.00



    on the website at http://www.mcmaster.com/#pressure-gauge-pigtails/=bpb6su
  • Mark_125
    Mark_125 Member Posts: 56
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    What kind of gauge?

    Hi James,

    What kind of gauge did you get? Do you have a link to an online supplier?

    Thanks,

    Mark
  • Hen
    Hen Member Posts: 56
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    gaugestore.com

    I got my low pressure gauges from http://www.gaugestore.com/ , which was suggested on THE WALL.  I got a 0-3 # gauge for one boiler, but for the second boiler, after some reflection (I have two boilers) I got 0-5 # gauge.  My boilers were cycling up to 4-5 lbs pressure (way too high, I learned from THE WALL: I am still working on that problem) and I was concerned I may blow the 0-3 # gauge.
  • JamesC in Stamford CT
    JamesC in Stamford CT Member Posts: 95
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    wika gauage

    I also got the Wika gauge, it was suggested on this site.

    http://gaugestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=33020
  • Hen
    Hen Member Posts: 56
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    Gauges come bottom mount and

    Hi Mark, In case you decide to buy one, make sure you get the mount that you want.  The gauges they sell on this site come bottom OR rear mount.
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