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Oil Filter Cartridges

Tony MassiTony Massi Member Posts: 86
Which would work better a felt or Micro flow filter cartridge when changing an oil filter?

Comments

  • Big EdBig Ed Member Posts: 896
    edited February 2011
    Micro Flow

    A little lower micron rating , larger surface area , less chance of bypass and it will always come out in one piece when changing ...
    I have enough experience to know , that I dont know it all
  • Tony MassiTony Massi Member Posts: 86
    Oil filter cartridges, Oil leaks

    One thing that worries me is when changing a Micro cartridge is the height size of the cartridge itself. It seems that the element is always a bit larger that the filter can itself. When tightening down the bolt on the top of the filter to the bottom can the last 1/4 to 1/2 inches the cartridge has to  be crushed down. This is where you lose sight of the gasket. The gasket could move or not be properly seated in the can ring. This could cause an oil leak after tightening the filter. With the felt cartridge, the cartridge is pushed right to the top of the filter top holding it in place. The gasket is held in place while the filter is tightened up. Also being the Micro cartridge is larger it can sometimes be forced to one side of the can sometimes pushing up against the gasket itself.
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    What brand?

    I would upgrade if it's a Fulflo
  • Tony MassiTony Massi Member Posts: 86
    What Brand?

    Generally speaking , The red & black ones.
  • Big EdBig Ed Member Posts: 896
    edited February 2011
    New Can

    If you have the condition of the filter element sits high in the can , its time for a new filter can .. Over the years of over tightening the bottom of the can pulls up ... The single bolt configuration is a bit tricky for gasket alignment ... I use three fingers to aline the can to the top while tighten and always replace all the gaskets ... Or go to a better filter , I feel the spin on with a vacuum gauge is the way to go .. I would not change it unless I see an increase in the normal vacuum reading for the job .... The less useless maintenance you perform the less problems.
    I have enough experience to know , that I dont know it all
  • DamonDamon Member Posts: 27
    The white fiber filters are better than the gray felt ones

    Why because the white ones have 1) more uniform filtration, 2) less if any stray fibers and 3) more surface area and filtration depth. The only thing I don't like about them vs the felt filters is that they are harder to compress in order to get the can to seal. Small price to pay for a superior product. I will add a spin on to my system at some point but probably after this heating season.
  • Tony MassiTony Massi Member Posts: 86
    New Flter cans

    The new filter cans that come with the micro element are usually are compressed down even to the top of the can. To avoid the expense and just changing the element is the problem . I agree changing to a spin on filter type is probably the answer, its just the expense. Some companies have started using the micro bio gaskets, green in color. I guess for what ever they add to the oil these days.
  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Cartridge Filters:

    The reason you don't see paper pack filters on any type of vehicle and that's cars, trucks, ships and airplanes is because the spin-on threaded type are so far superior, it isn't open to discussion. Has anyone seen an aftermarket kit to convert your auto or truck filters to the F4B or General type?

    Even (I find) that the spin-on's are not all created equal. That the short "R" models, which are 10 microns, filter better than their competing filters. One comes with a Ultra Tigerloop and it will pass crud to the Tigerloop where the brand name stops when and after you change it. My experience.

    With the burners of today that fire under 1.00 GPH, if fine crud gets through the cheap filters, it will go by the pump strainer and end up clogging the outside of the nozzle strainer. Which will cause a 140# pump pressure at the nozzle strainer, to make the nozzle orifice "see" 100# or less, changing the air/fuel ratio and under fire the burner.

    Fifty years ago, the auto manufacturers required oil changes every 1000 miles. Today, it is up to 15,000 miles. What changed? Quality oil filters.

    Why do some insist on putting 50+ YO old filters on modern oil burners? It is beyond me.

    Since I switched to two Spin-On's using the spin on brand name filters, I have had NOT ONE shut down due to clogged pump strainer or nozzle strainer.

    One free service call-back due to crud in the filter strainer will be paid for by the use of spin-ons. And those black and red ones? I stopped using those after the third one where the element was fused to the inside, the wire screen pulled out when I pulled on it with a pair of needle nosed pliers and had to dig out the rest with a big screwdriver. Then clean the rust and slime out of the bottom with my fingers and a rag. Now, I just "Spin and Grin". Drain it out overnight and dispose of it. 
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Tony

    If it's a General, I'd use the felt type. I have used Generals, and the replacement felt filters and gaskets. I am not a fan of microflow elements. They don't filter any better than the felt elements. The pump strainer and oil line will tell the story every time.
  • tomtom Member Posts: 269
    spin-on

    on new installs we only install the spin-ons. SOOO much easier to change on the Pm's. We also are changing all old style filters to the spin-ons as we go along. dont worry guys....the customers WILL pay for better filtration, you just have to explain it to them.

    Icesailor: do you use the vac gauges and do you change filters even if the reading is OK?
  • icesailoricesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Gauges:

    Yes, I always use a gauge on the filter at the burner. That reads both while running. I also write the date i changed it and my name in them with a magic marker for my information. I've let them go for up to three years and they still were working. The one at the tank gets the worst of it. I've been changing them both every years now because of all the crud in the oil. I don't usually have vacuums in the yellow but it is handy for a customer with a no heat call to hit the reset and see if the needle goes into the yellow or red.

    Even though I've had the tank one clog solid and the vacuum go into the red, the burner one was OK and the nozzle strainer was fine. That's  my experience. 
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