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Need a photo of pigtail/gauge to see how I should pipe a new 3 psi gauge, and of course questions .

Hello, my boiler (pictured below) has only the big pressure gauge, which is not at all accurate. I want to purchase and install a 3 psi gauage at the pigtail. Can someone post a photo showing how the finished thing should look? I need to know what kind of tubing and fittings to buy, and seeing it all done will help me decide what parts to get.



Also, I am not sure how to go about disassembling my pigtail -- where it connects up to the pressurtol, there seems to be a hexagonal compression fitting -- that I can probably loosen and unscrew, ok. But where it connects down to the LWC, it seems to just disappear into the black metal (see photo). Any suggestions would be helpful.



Last, if you see the pipe connected to the LWC from behind the lower part of the sight glass, the pipe is corroded on the outside. The boiler is about only 7 years old (so said the prior owner, I just bought the house) -- seems it should not get so crusty so fast(?). Should I be worried?



Thanks,

James

Comments

  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    edited February 2011
    Adding a Gauge

    Hi- Attached is a picture of how to add a Gauge. For a 3 PSI gauge a lot of people are using this gauge from the Gauge Store.

    http://www.gaugestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=33020

    For pigtails, if you can find a source locally, go to Mc Master Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#

    They have all sizes and shapes of pigtail. Get one in red brass as they are less likely to corrode. Also you might want to extend the gauges and pressuretrol up a bit so they are farther away from the boiler waterline.

    The loop on your pigtail should be oriented as in my attached picture. This is important with the old mercury switch pressuretrols as the expansion/contraction of the loop could tilt the pressuretrol sideways and throw the settings off. To remove the pressuretrol just saw the present pigtail in half, remove it, add the new fittings and then use a union to re connect the pressuretrol.

    - Rod
  • pigtail etc.

    Hi Rod, thanks so much for the photo and the tips. I see from the link that pigtails are not expensive, maybe 8 to 15 bucks. Still, do you think it's needed to replace it? Or can I just clean the one I have, and put it back (of course oriented as per your photo).



    I also now see that the pigtails seem to have their own threads, which explains why it just disappears in the cast iron LWC. I guess if I just unscrew it from the cast iron, it will just undo itself. But I guess I need to be careful not to dent it or break it!



    For the extension piping and elbow to the gauge, and the T to the pressurtrol, am I correct that I just get some black fittings? Or should I get brass?
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    edited February 2011
    Adding a Gauge

    Since your present pigtail is bronze (red brass), it is probably fine and easy to clean out if crudded up. Cleaning steel (iron) pigtails isn't usually worth the hassle. I mentioned cutting the pigtail and using a union to reconnect the pressuretrol method as some people are a bit leery of disconnecting the wiring in the pressuretrol. Just make sure to make a note of what wire goes where and be sure to kill the power to the boiler before working on it.  As for fittings either brass or black iron is fine. I tend to like brass due to the corrosion resistance. Home Depot carries 1/4 inch bronze (brass) fittings and nipples.

    - Rod
  • connecion at bottom of pressuretrol

    Hi again Rod, you said:



    "I mentioned cutting the pigtail and using a union to reconnect the pressuretrol method as some people are a bit leery of disconnecting the wiring in the pressuretrol. Just make sure to make a note of what wire goes where and be sure to kill the power to the boiler before working on it. "



    OK, I got it that I disconnect electricity first. Thanks, that's logical.



    But then doesn't the hexagonal fitting at the top of the pigtail just unscrew, to unconnect the presuretrol? I am not understanding why there would be wires, if (so it seems to me) there is only a simple plumbing connection between the pigtail and the pressuretrol. Please let me know what I'm missing.



    Thanks,

    James
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    There are two wires in there

      Remove that silver colored screw at the front/bottom/center and you will see the wires.  You will also need to disconnect the wire armor.
  • pigtail etc.

    OK, I got it. Of course, I can't spin the pressuretrol unless the wires are off of it!!! Now that makes lots of sense, thanks for helping me understand that.



    I think it is logical for me to replace my pigtail -- that way I can get one slightly taller than I have now, to be further away from the water line. Is it OK to get the type of pigtail that McMaster calls "Type C", which is a full 7 1/2 inches high, and which has a loop configured slightly differently than what I have now (I now have what looks like "Type A")? The pressuretrol installation guide from Honeywell shows a pigtail of about 4 or 5 inches in its diagrams, and this would be 7 1/2. This is the McMaster link . . . .



    http://www.mcmaster.com/#pressure-gauge-pigtails/=b45lwm



    And lastly, can anyone tel from my pics, that I need a "NPT Male x NPT Male" connection for the new pigtail?



    Thanks so much to everyone who has helped!
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Pigtail

    1/4 inch male x male would be the correct configuration. The chances are your present pigtail will work fine so if you wanted to get the controls higher, just add a coupling and a short nipple below the tee. I might also mention that you need to leave the old 0-30PSi gauge in place . It is required by code /insurance regs.

     In your original post you mentioned this was a new house. I don't know whether that means you are new to steam also. If you don't already have them, there are some excellent steam books offered in the "Shop" section of this website. I would recommend "We Got Steam Heat" as a place to start.

    http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Books/5/61/We-Got-Steam-Heat-A-Homeowners-Guide-to-Peaceful-Coexistence

    It's a great introductory book on residential steam heating.

    - Rod
  • JamesC in Stamford CT
    JamesC in Stamford CT Member Posts: 95
    edited April 2011
    sucess!!

    Thanks everyone for helping me figure this out. My new guage is installed and worked out great. Completed pics are at the end of my other post at Web Link.
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
    The key to success is

    to remove the pig first. Many have made this mistake and have paid the price.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
    Brirob
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