24v LWCO problem's ?

Tim Potter

I want to start a new thread for my issues, I'm sorry for hijacking this thread:



<a href="http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/134409/Whats-the-latest-on-24-volt-LWCO-causing-short-of-transformer">http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/134409/Whats-the-latest-on-24-volt-LWCO-causing-short-of-transformer</a>



Robbiedo, Mark Eatherton, when he was up critiquing my updates to my system, and servicing the boiler, suggested I wire it up to kill the whole boiler so the pump would stop also, preventing pump failure from running dry if there ever was a low water condition. It would be very hard to get a pump in the middle of the night in Winter Park, CO...

I was hesitant to wire the 24 v to run the control, right next to 120, so I found a way to kill the boiler using all 24v.

Please, any suggestions appreciated,



Thank You:



Tim

RobbieDo

LWCO

If you go to Taco's site and wire it up that way, then your system will work. The purpose of the LWCO is to shut off the boiler in case there isn't enough water in the system. The LWCO must be installed above the boiler to protect it and protect the occupants in the house. All you have to do is have the LWCO shut off the burner circuit, not the pump. What type of boiler do you have?

RobbieDo

Pump

One pump? Zone valves? What type of zone control are you using?

Tim Potter

My System...

SX-150 Slant/fin Cast Iron 150,000 btu, using a 007 pumping into an 80Gal Boiler Buddy,

TEKMAR Injection Pump Control, utilizing outdoor reset, controlling another 007 inj pump.

Grundfos 26-99 pumping into a 10 zone rehau manifold with Delta P valve.

Tim Potter

Here is a pic

Pictures

RobbieDo

LWCO

Well, I'm not quite sure what your trying to? If you want the LWCO to shut off the burner, burner and pumps, what? You also you where having a issue with it, what is the issue? Did you look at how Taco recommends you wire the LWCO? I normally use PLC's to control the boilers I install, then it gives me freedom to do what I want because I'm the one that programs it. Tell me what you are having issues with and what youmwant the LWCO to control. Thanks

Tim Potter

Problem is..

No heat, and my service guy reports issues with the LWCO, vent damper opening and closing, and boiler wont stay fired long enough to have heat. I saw Joseph's post and was wondering if others found there was indeed a issue with the LWCO and Aquastat.



Thank you for the response



Tim

Jean-David Beyer

I cannot tell from your pictures...

In the right-most picture, it looks as though the system is piped primary-secondary with two closely spaced Ts. However, you have a valve between the Ts which would have to be a full-port one (perhaps it is) and always left full on (perhaps you do). The supply from the boiler buddy is large (appropriately), but the return seems to be tiny red tubing. Is the red tubing oxygen barrier? But why is it so small? Also, no circulator seems to be in the primary loop. So why should the hot water bother to flow in the primary loop?



Looking at it another way, why bother with the closely spaced Ts? Would not the boiler buddy act as a large low loss header?



I am not a professional, so I may be mistaken here as to what you are trying to do.

Tim Potter

JDB,

You got it, The system is P/S, the valve is full port and is open all the time, just there for purging. Red tubing is ox barrier, and is small diam to throttle the injection mixing, the injection pump is down low, out of the picture -

The Boiler buddy is 80 gals of HOT water, which the injection pump sips on very slowly, to make warm water controlled by outdoor reset. This allows the cast iron boiler to have long run and off times.

The system seems to work great, this is my 1st winter with the redesigned plumbing, My wife even commented on how much more comfortable the house seems, The present problem seems to be the boiler is not firing, looks like a LWCO/Aquastat issue

Tim Potter

Found problem

After some time with my multimeter, I isolated the intermittent problem to a bad solder joint on the board where the relay attaches. I jumped around the relay to get the boiler to fire, and now we have heat until the control gets replaced or repaired, any suggestions???

I hooked back up the LWCO, and its working fine now too.

My field is automotive repair, and interments are a problem with cars & trucks too.