Slant-Fin fin-tube ratings.

JohnNY

What do the yellow columns mean? Why are they yellow?

<a href="http://slantfin.com/documents/673.pdf">http://slantfin.com/documents/673.pdf</a>

icesailor

Yellow Ratings:

I believe that those are for low temperature water ratings to be used with caution when using baseboard with low temperature water. That the ratings aren't really engineered for accuracy and to use with caution.

And if you want to convert an existing high temp. system to low, you can use these ratings as a starting point to add to existing radiation.

Notice how much additional radiation you need to add to a low temperature system. Calculate how much more it will cost you in pipe, fittings and radiation and how much it adds to the cost of the system. Cost that out over a time period. How does it pay back for you?

Just a point to ponder.

While I sit in a foggy airport waiting for a plane.

Mark Eatherton

Calculated versus tested...

Those numbers were extrapolated from actual higher temperature testing. I don't believe they actually tested them at that temperature.



ME

Robert O'Brien

I was told

that it was  for use with condensing boilers

EricAune

Mark has it

As read directly off my chart in the office:



"*Ratings at 140*F and lower temperatures determined by multilying 150*F rating by the applicable factor specified in Table E in the I=B=R Testing and Rating Standard for Baseboard radiation"

Jean-David Beyer

Cost that out over a time period.

I agree that one should cost it out over a time period. But it is very interesting.

I put enough baseboard in my upstairs zone so I could get condensing all the time; i.e., my maximum supply temperature is 134F, and that only if it goes down to about 6F outside; design day temperature here is 14F. Since I am not a contractor, I had a contractor do it, so costing involved the parts, the labor, and profit for the contractor. On that basis, the actual cost of the Slant/Fin 2000 was not a major part of the cost (as long as I did not turn any corners, and stuff like that that would have increased the labor). So I have Slant/Fin all the way across the two rooms on the walls with the windows.



It is not clear what time period to use for me. I figure I will not live more than 28 more years, so that is the upper limit. I doubt the baseboard will wear out in that time (no moving parts, no electronics). On the other hand, how much more will it condense with 14 feet of baseboard in one room instead of 12? or 10? or 8? or 6? It could be figured out, but I did not do that. So far this heating season, it has been below the design temperature only on 3 days, and only for a while each night, not all 24 hours.

icesailor

My Real World:

In my world, as I understand it, this is how I see it.

Not discussing price, just numbers.

Using the Slant/Fin #15 charts, If I have a room that computes to 10,000 BTU heat loss, it would take 18.1' or 19' (rounded off) of baseboard to heat the room at design at 550 BTU's per foot.. If I designed for 130 degrees as per the chart, it takes 41.6' or 42' of #15 Slant Fin at 240 degrees per foot. If you had 6 rooms at 10,000 BTU's, it would take 114' of baseboard to heat it at 180 degree water. If you used 130 degree water, you need 252' of baseboard. Unless I misunderstand the principal.

If #15 Slant/Fin sells for $10.00 per foot, it would cost $1140.00 for 19' and $2520.00 for 42'. $1380.00 more for baseboard. In the world I live in, a price at $200.00 higher than the next will loose you the job. It would also buy you 383 gallons of oil at $3.60, the current inflated price by the Wall Street Banksters and Sludge Fund speculators. Derivatives.