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Solia boiler not heating up

Eric L._2
Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
Can I increase the nozzle size on a solia boiler from .60 to .65 or .75. I won't reach proper operating temp of 180 it only goes to 140. Any thoughts?

Comments

  • Robert O'Brien
    Robert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,537
    Sure!

    Why not? You asked the same question a few days ago and  didn't like those answers!
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • Jason_13
    Jason_13 Member Posts: 304
    edited February 2011
    NO!

    If boiler does not get to temp there is a problem. Resolve the problem don't just install a band-aid.

     Why boiler does not get to temp?

    1. Boiler undersized - Probably not

    2. Near boiler piping incorrect

    3. Control problem

    4. Electronic thermostat not set up right

    You cannot overfire the boiler
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,386
    Lets have a ....

    few pictures to see what you have for piping. Sounds like it is a HIGH mass system and a LOW mass boiler. Not a real perfect match. However it may be fixed w/ a proper piping strategy and some appropriate controls. Running the boiler below 140 is not a good longterm idea.
  • Mike Kusiak_2
    Mike Kusiak_2 Member Posts: 604
    Why?

    Why do you expect the boiler to normally reach 180F? This is typically the high limit temperature, but it may not norrnally reach that temperature unless you are trying to maintain that temperature for a tankless coil.



    Under normal use,  in a high mass, high water content system like yours, the system temperature required for large cast iron radiators is far less than 180F. 140F or less may be all that is required to meet the present heat loss of the house and satisfy the thermostat.



    If yoy are concerned about condensation in the boiler due to low water temperatures, install a thermostatic bypass so that the boiler can operate at a higher temperature than the radiation. The manual explains this setup pretty well:



    http://www.boyertownfurnace.com/ProductDocuments/Manuals/Boyertown%20Furnace%20SOLAIA11-1-10%20Manual.pdf
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Pics of piping

    Sorry it took so long. Forgive me if I am annoying anyone my aim is to get armed with a little knowledge before I get a pro in to service it.
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,386
    is there only....

    the one circulator? I can't really see that well as to what goes where.
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Just the one taco 007 and above it is a check valve

    I have a guy coming over to check the pump pressure on the oil burner, its supposed to be 160  I have a funny feeling its still set at factory 100.
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Nope its set ok

    I guess it has to be a piping issue, I had a heatloss done it shouldn't  be too small.
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Nope its set ok

    I guess it has to be a piping issue, I had a heatloss done it shouldn't  be too small.
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Nope its set ok

    I guess it has to be a piping issue, I had a heatloss done it shouldn't  be too small.
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,386
    I would be using....

    two pumps. One for the system and the other for the boiler. Also I would have the system one contolled by the t-stat and the end switch off that go to the boiler control which in my opinion should be a tankless boiler aquastst. That way the boiler is not prolonged in condensing mode.
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,090
    Just wondering

    Eric just wondering was a heatlose done and if so is the boiler sized to this lose .From the looks of your pics it would seem to me at a glance that your mains are over sized and probalbly could have been reduced before tying into your boiler .Fiqure out what the lose is for each side of your mains being they look to be to seperate (2 supply 2 return) Was this system a gravity system or just a large water content system.If the boiler was sized properly then your promblem lies in the piping and flow rates .If your heat lose is correct then you will have to straighten out the piping .Did you follow the manafactures suggested piping and install the return thermostatic valve with a system by pass ? Seeing you have isolation valves in your photo have you tryed throlting them to lower the flow rate through the system which should help the boiler get up to temp and allow more supply side to by pass back to the boiler return to keep you above the gas  condensation point .Also have you checked your heat lose room to room in comparision to the radition in each room.if your stat is getting satisflyed with below 180 water then your main conern would be keeping the boilers temp above flue gas condenstaion point which is about 145 degrees .What type of temp differnce are you getting across the system .Without being there it's a little difficult but i would say it's the large water volume and exceeding the recommended flow rates for the boiler.I have run into systems with  simalar promblems and it was nothing that could not be cured with the properly sized system by pass with a globe valve to throttle it .Hope this helps peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Yes had a heat loss done

    and this bolier should be more than enough. The house is warm even with the low temps in the boiler and I suspected it had some thing to do with water volume. SO if I understand you then a globe valve or some smaller repiping would help this? Thank you for your input.



    Are you in the business? Do you service the Bronx?
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,386
    Eric...

    check out the thread title "over sized boiler-dry fired" That is how you need to pipe your set up. Note the primary loop and the closely spaced tees that separate the boiler from the system.
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    Globe valve question

    The boiler has a feed and return isolation 1 1/4 ball valve , do I need a globe valve or can close the ball valves a little to restrict flow? Thanks



    Eric
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
    Yeah but....

    You will have to go to about 90% of the valve handles throw before you start getting to a close off point.



    You are attempting to get hotter water out of the boiler, and into the system, no?



    Choking the ball valve will raise the boilers operating temperature, and help it avoid the condensation production blues, but it is not going to help heat your house water to a higher degree. That can only be done by either shedding load OR increasing output.



    You need to put a thermostatic valve on the return to the boiler to protect it from condensation production, and any excess energy will be dumped into the heating pipes and it will do whatever it is going to do, temperature wise. If it satisfies a call for heat with 140 degree water, then so be it. You need to worry about condensing your non condensing boiler.



    ME
    It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
  • Eric L._2
    Eric L._2 Member Posts: 94
    House heats fine

    Was just worried about boiler temps, I'm going to give it a try with the ball valves. Thanks



    Eric L.
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