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Radiator Valves - are they needed?
Papi_2
Member Posts: 9
Two questions about radiator valves.
1. I am planning to vent the top of my risers by replacing the angle radiator valve with a tee going to a straight valve then to the radiator. The straight valve has something like a brass disc inside that seats into a channel at the bottom of the valve when the valve is closed. My question is about when the valve is open: won't condensate rest in this channel at the bottom of the valve, and then when the steam comes is it possible that the steam will pick up this water and throw it? It seems suboptimal. Does anyone have any thoughts?
2. While I was thinking about the radiator valve it occurred to me: why use a valve at all? The valve is just for isolation. You are not supposed to operate the valve when the system is under pressure. So why wouldn't one simply install a union before the radiator, and when isolation is needed, open the union, and connect something which has the-second-part-of-the-union/nipple/cap? Am I missing something?
Thanks for your help!
1. I am planning to vent the top of my risers by replacing the angle radiator valve with a tee going to a straight valve then to the radiator. The straight valve has something like a brass disc inside that seats into a channel at the bottom of the valve when the valve is closed. My question is about when the valve is open: won't condensate rest in this channel at the bottom of the valve, and then when the steam comes is it possible that the steam will pick up this water and throw it? It seems suboptimal. Does anyone have any thoughts?
2. While I was thinking about the radiator valve it occurred to me: why use a valve at all? The valve is just for isolation. You are not supposed to operate the valve when the system is under pressure. So why wouldn't one simply install a union before the radiator, and when isolation is needed, open the union, and connect something which has the-second-part-of-the-union/nipple/cap? Am I missing something?
Thanks for your help!
0
Comments
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I did it
I have a large rad (largest in this building) at the entrance to the building ground floor very far down the main away from boiler. I had valve issues, pitch issues, and vent issues. The original rad was a 2 pipe rad with one end plugged and a 2" tapping bushed down to 1-1/4" I could barely get this rad to heat. I switched valve with a T, put a gorton #1 in the top w a bushing, and a close nipple then union, then close nipple into the new rad. Have a gorton D vent on that and the rad is heated very quickly and quietly now. works like a dream. U could use a ball valve on that if you rather have a valve, they are smoother than a gate valve but I went without it. no probs since0 -
The radiator valve is made for the job.
takes up less horizontal space than a ball valve and union and the water in that groove is far less than the water along the whole bottom of your radiator. You are getting too fussy.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
I probably am getting too fussy
I'm sure you're right. Good to have someone tell me so. Thank you!0
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