installing threaded pipes

JamesC in Stamford CT

Hello, I am about to make my fist repair to the piping of the one-pipe steam system in my house. I will be replacing a 1" coupling, installing a small length of new 1" threaded piping, a new 1" to 1/2" elbow, and then installing a new Gorton #2 into the new elbow. Do I use teflon tape for the threaded connections? My plumbing supply house suggested a product called "All-purpose Grrip pipe joint & gasket seal." I am afraid the Grrip might make it hard to later remove the Gorton #2 -- but I also want a good seal between the threads. And as for the pip-to-coupling connections, I do not know what to think. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks you in advance, James

crash2009

Everyone has their favorite

one product is likely no better than another.  I am using Hercules Pro-Dope.  I think it is water based as opposed to oil. 

Put some dope on the threads, just enough to fill the grooves.  Wrap a few layers of teflon over the dope, then dope it again.  dope-teflon-dope

The teflon has to be installed in a certain direction.  I am not sure how to put that into words but I will try.  Wrap the threads away from you instead of toward you.  If you don't the tail end of the teflon will bunch up and look messy.  Have a couple rags close by.

Have fun

  

Al Letellier_21

steam piping

good advice on the previous post but I always use teflon and dope on the steam or steel piping and as you mentioned for ease of removal, only teflon tape on the vent and wrench snug only.....there is so little pressure in a steam system that you do not need to crank down on things like vents, syphon tubes and gauges. As my dad always said: "think about the next guy and hope he will smile and not grunt and cuss when he takes something apart you installed"

Dave in QCA

Right Handed

Crash is obviously right handed, as am I.  His instructions make perfect sense, as long as you are holding the pipe in your left hand and wrapping the teflon tape with your right.  If you switch hands, then you would be wrapping the tape towards you.



Another way to remember it, always wrap the teflon tape onto the threats of a pipe in the same direction that a fitting would thread "ON" to that pipe.

Big-Al_2

RTV

I've used just Teflon tape, and it works fine.  The problem with teflon tape is that if you ever disassemble and reassemble a joint, unless you scrupulously clean it, there will be Teflon shreds intruduced in the system . . . and they might find their way into a vent and booger things up.  (Teflon tape is especially bad in compressed air or hydraulic systems.)



When I have a steam fitting I want to take apart later, I generally use RTV silicone gasket sealer in the place of pipe dope.  It's basically high temperature silicone caulk.  I find that I really don't have to tighten things excessively to get a good seal, even badly cut or somewhat damaged threads seal fine, and disassembly is a breeze.  OK, that's my $.02 . . . 

Polycarp

not a pro

...but I use just teflon.  I've found that between me making mistakes, me taking a very staged approach to repairs on my system and me making more mistakes, being able to take the pipes back apart is a huge benefit.

Ron Jr._3

Teflon tape and Pro Dope for us

Anything 1/2 inch or less , Teflon alone works just as well . I've seen countless radiator vents spun in without any sealant at all . Never leak but what a **** to remove some of 'em .

Mike Kusiak_2

RTV for me

I agree with Big-Al. RTV in its various forms like high temp silicone caulk or automotive instant gasket is the best thing I have found for removable threaded joints. From high pressure hydraulics to steam, sink drain connections to anode rods on water heaters. Have been using it for over 25 years and never had a leak, even with damaged threads.



 Even after many years in service, the joints disassemble as if they were just made yesterday.



Don't like teflon tape because of the shreds and scraps it leaves which as Al mentions, can clog precision parts. 

Charlie from wmass

pro dope

It is oil based so be neat with it. You don't want clumps floating around. When it is brass to iron I use teflon unless it needs to be grounded throught the thread like with a LWCO. If it leaks take it apart and use pro dope wrapped with teflon.

JamesC in Stamford CT

pipe dope?

Thanks everyone for this very interesting and helpful discussion. Am I correct in thinking that "All-purpose Grrip pipe joint & gasket seal" (Grrip is a trade name, with two "R"s -- the maker is Hercules, I think), is what people are referring to as "pipe dope"? Or is it a "silicone gasket sealer"?

Dave in QCA

La-co Slicktite

Is my favorite.  It is approved for all uses with the exception of oxygen piping.  Has a very high teflon fiber content, stays soft, and makes it easy to remove piping at a later date.

http://www.laco.com/pdfs/product_bulletins/slic_titet_prod_bulletin.pdf

JamesC in Stamford CT

how long to wait to fire boiler after using Grrip pipe joint & gasket seal

OK, thanks everyone for all your help. I have successfully removed the old vent, elbow and coupling and replaced with a Gorton #2. The temp is getting low inside, I want to turn the heat back up. But I do not want to turn it on before the Hercules"Grrip pipe joint & gasket seal" is set enough. The instructions do not say how long it takes to set. Any thoughts? This is the product from Hercules (scroll down to Grrip) . . .

http://www.herchem.com/products/thread_sealants.html

crash2009

The instructions say

 "puts joints back into service in minutes"  What are you waiting for?  Fire it up.

Rod

Tightening Pipe Thread

Go ahead and turn it on. Threaded pipe dope isn't like PVC slip fillings. You don't have to let it cure. While it does seal the thread somewhat, the main function of Teflon tape and/or pipe dope is lubricating the threads so they can be fully tightened.

- Rod

Dave in QCA

Darnit!

Crash and Rod, you guys spoiled all my fun!  I was going to tell James that he had to wait 48 hours!

Charlie from wmass

Pro dope is pro dope

it is a gray pipe thread sealant. It is cheap and basic and it works.

JamesC in Stamford CT

Thanks guys! Here are the results . . . .

I want to thank all of you, this is a really great board. See photo below of my final installation. I had to extend with a nipple because the gorton was taller than the prior vent, and the gorton would have hit the joist. But it seems to work exactly as it's supposed to -- lots of gushing air (actually, more like spurts of air, huffing and puffing a bit), but it closed when hot and filled the very last part of the main with steam -- something that had not occurred in a long time. Now I have other balancing issues, old radiator air vents to replace or adjust, and some other problems to attend to, but now that I've cleared this hurdle I can get to the next steps. Thanks everyone, James