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Viessmann wb2b control console

binskibok
binskibok Member Posts: 19
Friday afternoon my 1 year old Viessmann WB2B 9-26 boiler went out of commision with a F4 diagnostic code. The code puts  the burner in fault mode.  It was determined that the  control console  (part number 7834245) was faulty due to a bad ionization current. Scrambling quickly (3:50 PM) I managed to get the order in but no delivery til Monday. (Much to my surprise Viessmann Warwick has no Saturday winter schedule/hours. Has anyone swapped this board out? What is approximate timeframe involved? Any nuances I should be aware of? Can I use the existing coding card and swap it in or do I have to recode it??  I'd appreciate any input you guys may have to make the install easier. Not a  great time for the boiler to  go south since temps in Connecticut have been in teens overnight. At least it's still under warrantee.  Looking forward to hearing any experience you may have had with this problem.    THANKS     

Comments

  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,085
    edited January 2011
    How Did You Determine a Bad Board

    If its the ionization electrode that is a replaceable product easily taken out with two screws. It;s really no more than a flame sensor.  Has someone taken that out and checked it? Viessman has a 24 hour 7 day a week tech line, They would have shipped it on Friday and you would have gotten on Sat. The Tech Line Number is 1-888-484-8643. There  is somone there now.



    I had one boiler do the same thing and the rod was ever so slightly bent and the boiler just wouldn't fire. I find it highly unlikely its the board but then again you never know.



    If you ever run into a problem like this where you cannot get someone or something from Viessmann please e-mail me. I just up the road off Rt84 in NY not but 30 minutes from Danbury. You could have also called the guys at Heat Tech. I'm sure Tony and his crew could have bailed you out..
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • binskibok
    binskibok Member Posts: 19
    Control console not the problem1

    Monday morning (after a weekend without boiler heat, had gas log installed Sat afternoon to get  me through) I got the console from Plimpton and Hills. When I got home I powered on the boiler to check coding values to confirm them in case the service contractor needed to reestablish them. Much to my surprise the Wb2B fired up normally. When contractor  arrived they were also puzzled. They spoke with  Viessmann Tech and were at loss as to what transpired from the first diagnosis. So was I!!!!!!!  They went thru the normal steps: ionization rod, ignition , condensate and did some other stuff (standby relay test, flow switch) that were above me.     My call to heat tech on Friday was not returned even though I specified a no heat situation. I also left a message on Saturday. I guess they do not want to be bothered by homeowners. These calls were to help me in finding  a local Viessmann  certfied contractor in the area since my original installers (Viess trained) had moved on to commercial projects . They got the original call but were booked and would not be available til Wednesday at the earliest. This was a costly experience on my part : 2 service calls and a gas log although that makes a great backup plus all the monies running that thing compared to my Viessmann.  And not to mention no real fix for the original F4 fault code. My main question is where can I find  a list of Viessmann trained and licensed contractors in my area that I can work with on an as needed basis. Hartford county in Connecticut.  It seems that they are far and few between. Your thoughts??????
  • CMadatMe
    CMadatMe Member Posts: 3,085
    edited January 2011
    Flue/Rod

    The proper channel would be to call Heat Tech and ask for Partner Program Contractors. If you call RI they will tell you to contact them. Your just outside Colchester call Shetucket in Colchester (Now the Granite Group) and ask for Rob he has been doing Viessmann for over 20 years I'm sure he knows of someone in the area. I worked with him back when I worked for Shetucket. Great guy very knowledgable.. The number is 860-537-7600





    Make sure you take out the innozation rod, clean it and check to see if it's dead nuts level. If not may be the problem. Had one that was slightly bent and caused the same problem. Intermitenent burner faults. Also double check flue and make sure no obstructions or cross contamination. Also check coding address 85 and make sure it is set to 0 and not 1.





    How is the boiler vented? How far? How many elbows?
    "The bitter taste of a poor installation remains much longer than the sweet taste of the lowest price."
  • meplumber
    meplumber Member Posts: 678
    Something else to check.

    I had a Vitodens a few years ago doing the same thing.  After much head banging against the wall.  And a series of costly call backs.  I was able to detect a problem with the coil on the gas valve. 



    The problem seemed to be weather dependent.  After dramatic changes in temperature the customer would call with a report of an F4 lockout.  We attributed the weather relationship to a change in vaporization.  Maybe?  Maybe not?  Either way, the new gas valve coil fixed the problem.



    There are ohms readings for the gas valve at the different levels of fire.  I don't have them in front of me.  The problem that I had was eeriely similar to the one you are experiencing.  Tech Support can give your contractor the ohms readings and he can check it.



    Good Luck.
  • VictoriaEnergy
    VictoriaEnergy Member Posts: 126
    Look at the other 1/2 of the circut

    I assume you've checked and cleaned the flame rod with 00 steel wool. The flame rectification involves tiny currents, 20 microamps.  The ac current is applied to the flame rod, so the flame and the larger surface of the burner allow tiny currents to flow from the rod to the burner.  The current involved is so small any resistance or disturbance in the ground path will interupt it.

    Since it is a circuit flowing from the board to the rod, through the flame, and back to the board via the the ground; If there is any resistance anywhere along the way, it won't take much to create a fault.  The first sign of a bad ground or neutral is always a flame fault.   So check and make sure all the ground wires in the unit are clean and secure.  Also check the the grounding all the way back to the electrical panel.  A lifted ground from the house will result in electrical noise that can cause a false trip.  while you're at it the same applies to the neutral (L2, White)

    I had a Carrier furnace in the fall that our tech replaced the board on, it worked for a while and then quit again.  He got normal volts when he tested the transformer and then no life when he connected power to the board.  He thought Carrier was producing bad boards, and ordered another.  The problem I found was the neutral was loose in a marret in the disconect switch box.  The system tx was able to produce voltage under no load via eddy curents through the transformer iron to ground. 

    We are often too quick to blame boards, particularly when we don't have one on hand.

    Hope this helps

    post what the fix was once you've got it beat.
    Home Owners Please Note:





    You are receiving advice from some very skilled pros completely free of charge. One of the reasons I participate is to sharpen my own troubleshooting skills. So; did we get it right? I would be grateful if you extend this courtesy back by posting the final outcome of the issue you are inquiring about. Thanks
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