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How efficient (approx) is the Peerless Oil Boiler made in ~1985?

Paul84 Member Posts: 3

I couldn't find this information on the manufacturer website - and they don't reply to e-mails...

Boiler Model Num: JOT-3H-W

Boiler Serial Num: JO-68035

All I know that it was made around 1985. Can anyone tell me how efficient (best case scenario) were boilers made in that time?...

I am trying to calculate if it would pay to replace it with a new boiler...

One plummer told me to invest in something like Buderus Logano 115WS:

<a href="http://www.buderus.us/products/oilheating/oilconventional/logano115ws.html">http://www.buderus.us/products/oilheating/oilconventional/logano115ws.html</a>

The other plummer told me that my existing Peerless is 85% efficient and new boilers are the same ("exactly the same") and it doesn't pay to buy a new one...

Is it possible that in 25 years oil boilers gained only few % in efficiency???...

Second Question (probably should be a separate topic).

Would replacing a my old Beckett Burner improve efficiency?...


  • R Mannino
    R Mannino Member Posts: 440
    How Are

    you currently producing domestic hot water?
  • Paul84
    Paul84 Member Posts: 3
    I use the same boiler

    I use the same boiler. It is connected to the "booster" 50 gallon tank. The coil inside the boiler wasn't keeping up with the demand for hot water.
  • meplumber
    meplumber Member Posts: 678
    First a little info to help with your decision. Sorry for the long post.

    Boilers like the Peerless, were the American standard for many years in our industry.  They were tanks.  They ran great with yearly maintenance and heated homes throughout the winter.  They run in the 82% to 85% efficency range. 

    Then came an increase in fuel prices.  European imports, like Buderus and Viessmann started to gain fame (actually they had been here for years).   They make great equipment.   The Europeans had been paying higher fuel prices for over a decade.  These boilers are 3 pass.  Meaning that the gases of combustion pass through the heat exchanger 3 times before leaving the chimney.  Many of the older installers didn't like them because they never took the time to understand that with change comes the need to change our installation and setup methods.

    With all that being said, the most that we can legitimately squeeze out of #2 fuel oil is around 89% efficiency.  There are some boilers on the market that are squeezing 90%, but the cost of the equipment makes the 1% moot.

    In my humble opinion developed over many years in the basement, look at an upgrade.  You wouldn't expect a car to last as long as your current heating system has.  There are some condensing gas boilers available that have efficiencies in the high 90%'s, but that number is dependent on running low temperature radiation.

    From the age of your boiler, I suspect that your house has what we call high temp radiation.  You could benefit most from a newer oil boiler with Outdoor Reset capabilities.  Most importantly.  When you start to look around.  A good contractor is more important than the name on the front of the equipment.

    Good Luck.
  • 04090
    04090 Member Posts: 142
    edited January 2011

    I was at the same place you are, except my old boiler has started leaking a bit when it cools down.

    One thing you should not overlook is lining the chimney. My oil company, a large outfit that's been servicing the boiler for years, said t here's no problem to install a Buderus 115 into my unlined 1800's chimney. From what was posted on this board and elsewhere online, that recommendation couldn't be further than the truth. As a last ditch effort, I verified that with the local building inspector. I also learned, first from this board, that a gas hot water heater also needs a lined chimney.

    Just something to consider if you're looking to reuse the chimney. FWIW, we're going to install a gas side vent system in the spring and, because of structural problems with it, abandon the chimney.
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