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New home radiator troubles

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MarkF
MarkF Member Posts: 2
Hi everyone,



Let me start with the problems I'm trying to solve (in case I'm going down the wrong road trying to solve them!)... My problems occur in my new, 94 year old home with 1 pipe steam heat. It has not been well-cared-for for at least 10 years, and possibly longer.



Problem #1) Radiator in the bedroom leaks at the union.



Problem #2) Radiator in living room leaks a few drops at the union. Also, the shut-off valve doesn't shut off, and if it's not in the 'off' position, it gushes from the valve stem.



For problem #1, when we first moved in, it leaked a LOT -- enough to come through the ceiling of the living room downstairs! I started by tightening the union nut and then added teflon tape, and then teflon pipe dope after cleaning the mating surfaces as well as I could. At each step, it got better, but it still leaks a few drops each heating cycle. This is somewhat OK... but what should be my next step?



For problem #2, I figured the best course of action would be to replace the shutoff valve as well as the spud leading into the radiator. Disconnecting the radiator from the valve at the union nut was no problem, but I've been unable to unscrew the valve from the pipe OR the spud from the radiator. I've loaded them up with as much PB Blaster as I can and wrenched on them all day, hot (from steam) and cold.. I used a 14" pipe wrench with a breaker/cheater-bar on the end. Neither the valve nor the pipe coming out of the radiator have budged. I plan on letting them sit a few more days drenched in PB Blaster and then trying again, but then I think I'll have to call in a pro unless anyone has any more suggestions for me? :)



Thank you!

-Mark

Comments

  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
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    Radiator Spuds:

    Are you using a "Spud Wrench to get the spud out?

    A 14"rench is too small. An 18" is better, a 24" is best. With maybe a pipe extension.

    Is the radiator disconnected?

    Is the spud on the left or right?

    If its on the right, lay the radiator on the floor and use the floor as the other wrench.
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,578
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    leaking union

    when you tried to clean the mating surfaces, did you use scotch-brite or some-such abrasive pad? if sand paper, did you wipe off the sand?

    how is the system pressure/  even the best seated unions can leak at pressures higher than 2 psi. 

    the mating surfaces will not seal with any extra pipe dope, or tape on them ,or the threads of the union nut. at the most, put some dish-washing liquid on the scrubbed mating surfaces, and the nut threads; and rock the radiator while tightening the nut. check to make sure that the alignment is close to being perfect between the rad and the valve, as a union can only stand so much misalignment in the vertical, and the horizontal!--nbc
  • MarkF
    MarkF Member Posts: 2
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    Waiting for the PB Blaster to soak in...

    Thanks guys,



    Yes, I'm using a spud wrench to try to get it out. That is a great idea to lay the radiator flat on the ground... wish I'd thought of that...



    I checked the pressure and found the cut-in/out was set for 1.5 - 2.5psi. I set it to the lowest setting of 0.5 - 1.5psi and I'll hope for heat at all the radiators and no leaks.



    Nicholas: Are you recommending against the use of pipe dope entirely, or just not to use too much of it? The surfaces do line-up nicely and I can hand-tighten most of the way, so I think the rocking is unnecessary?



    Thanks!
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