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Need Help please!!!
HenryT
Member Posts: 128
Hi all. my current project was to upgrade my undersize radiator. I went out an purchased a good sized radiator but the issue now is that the newer radiator being that its bigger, wont connect directly to the supply valve coming from the ground.
Can i add an elbow and slant it towards the supply valve so that the condensate will flow back down to the boiler?
what other alternatives are there?
like an idiot, i sold my older radiator so now i have a room without heat... i sleep in this room too... any suggestions and help is greatly appreciated..
thanks!
Can i add an elbow and slant it towards the supply valve so that the condensate will flow back down to the boiler?
what other alternatives are there?
like an idiot, i sold my older radiator so now i have a room without heat... i sleep in this room too... any suggestions and help is greatly appreciated..
thanks!
0
Comments
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installing radiator
you will need to install a new steam valve on the pipe, and a new spud into the radiator. the spud is unfortunately matched only to its original valve, and no other. it is a difficult job.
can you buy the old one back? the new owner will have the same problem, so there could be a chance of redemption.
why did you think it was too small? perhaps it had some problem which prevented it from reaching its potential.--nbc0 -
thanks nbc
It was too small, the edr on it was only 19.2. Using the calculations learned on this forum, i need at least a 37 edr for the room my size.
If i add extra fittings like ells and unions, will that cause hammering?
buying the old radiator is not an option...0 -
making do
get out your wrenches, hacksaw, and hammer. some combination of el's and nipples should make it fit. do a search for "spud" here and there should be a description of the work to be done.
how is it that an under-sized radiator had been installed?--nbc0 -
Help!!
will this cause hammering if I tilt it back towards supply valve??
Thanks so much.0 -
it would "work"
but all the threads are incorrect. Still need to get the spud out and connect it to the valve.0 -
spud
You're gettin it. You'll have to get the old spud out as mentioned earlier. That can turn into a job, But it looks like you're handy enough. As long as that radiator tapping is higher than the valve you should be able to avoid hammer as a result of the new rad.
Good luck, I think you've got the bull by the horns.
peace
Matthew0 -
spud
You're gettin it. You'll have to get the old spud out as mentioned earlier. That can turn into a job, But it looks like you're handy enough. As long as that radiator tapping is higher than the valve you should be able to avoid hammer as a result of the new rad.
Good luck, I think you've got the bull by the horns.
peace
Matthew0 -
double post
sorry for repetitive post itchy input finger0 -
match
Do you have the spud from that valve? It's best to keep them matched. Often leak if you try to mix them. Be sure the radiator is high enough so there is a slight pitch back to the riser. You get the spud out then attach the elbows and turn the spud into that and connect to the valve. You may wind up replacing the valve in order to get a good spud valve connection they are machined.Give it a try if you can get the spud out with out destroying it and it fits your valve if it seat without leaking your good to go.0 -
abandon valve....
break out the lower rad bushing and do it all in npt..exchange valve with an elbow/close/union/close...I've found it easier to remove the rad bushing (lay rad on floor and use 6ft breaker arranged so that you are loosening by pushing the rad into the floor) than to remove spuds.
rad valves are expensive compared to the combination above..and in a 1-pipe system they should basically always remain completely open.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Thanks
Thankse everyone,
Perhaps i am not understanding why I need to replace the spud? any why the threading is not going to fit? I just have to match the 1 1/4" pipe no?
Can i turn the radiator supply valve 90 degrees (clockwise) and use a 90 degrees street elbow. This way i can save a fitting...
what do you guys think?
for the curious minds, I had to go out and buy a electric heater to keep warm last night....0 -
did you try
threading it completely together yet?1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Henry Read Carefully Please!
The thread on the valve is only compatible with the union nut supplied with the valve. It is a straight thread of specific pitch. It is not National Pipe Taper as the street elbow threads are. The threads of the union nut you have are also specific to the valve they came from. A larger radiator may not mean more heat. The supply pipe looks from the photo to be 1". That is all the steam you will get. No matter the size of the radiator you connect. You can use the street 90's as you plan but the spud in the radiator needs removed. Then the 90's get threaded into the radiator and the sud into the elbow towards the valve. the valve needs changed and will come with a MATCHING spud. I prefer to use a close nipple and a 45 with a new valve or 2 45's if I need to roll the fitting to gain height. as street fittings tend to be under sized internally as compared to pipe of the same nominal size.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
darn
Charlie, you just opened a new world for me.
As you stated the valve is 1", so you saying my new radiator won't translate into more heat? Will it not heat entirely across even if i fast vent it?
I hope this is not the case.. i totally didnt see this coming. Please say it aint so...
JP, i did a search on "spud" and now i understand why it wont fit. depending on what charlie responds (crossing fingers), I will try to remove the spud and buy a new one for the radiator. I could keep my existing supply valve correct?
What If i can contact the buyer of my old radiator and take out the old spud that fitted and put that in my new radiator, that would work right?
Thanks again.0 -
if the rad is
of larger edr then it will supply more heat...I don't real offhand how much edr a 1 inch pipe can supply.
getting the spud out of the old radiator would probably work.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
phewww.great..
Thanks JP and everyone. i will try to get the old spud back and add an elbow in hopes that it works!0 -
1" pipe
is rated for 25 square feet by the chart I have on hand for one pipe steam without a drip and with it pitched up away from the main. That is for a horizontal take off.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0
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